we finally get on the plane... and no trouble.. we are not sent back to australia .. which at this point we feel it is too expensive... gas 8$ gallon and vans expensive to rent and the country is so darn big... so off we go to another expensive place but at least it's smaller and we don't have to travel far or rent a car... it all seems good... except we find that japan does get hot.. not a little bit hot.. alot hot... so hot that people wear wet rags on their head... and carry umbrellas during the day and the women wear long gloves... just my kind of climate... right...
we arrive in osako.. steamy, bustling night... the hotel that we thought we had was cancelled at the last minute.. we need room... this story has been written... under... something like... i am not a hero.... so let's move on.. just to let you know that osaka very crowded.. all the businessmen out after work heading to happy hour.. they were very happy... the little bars they frequented were air conditioned.. i stuck my head inside one... through plastic strips that are usually in meat markets... it kept the hot air out... enough to make it comfortable.. all the bars looked inviting... crowded, dark, full of chatter and laughter... some were off down hallways and into these secret little spaces... we heard that osaka is known for its nightlife .. it is more gritty than other cities in japan... industrial...
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Thursday, November 13, 2008
last day , wild night...
Woke up early and headed out right away.. wanted to see uliru at sunrise... went to the sunset viewing park cause it would be empty... cloudy sky,, good for pictures.. we were the only ones there... lot of pictures taken while mark made breakfast.. sausage and beans plus the usual.. pb and jelly, yogurt, wheatabix etc..
College student, Sam, birthday party... brits bought cake , champagne, funny glasses and a button that said.. i am 21...
Off to uliru for base walk... 8 miles around the rock... it alternated between scrub brush and trees.... it sort of became a race.. we were in the rear.. the germans are so fast.. the hopping guy, the fastest .. and rons wife joan.. a smoker,,, deceptively quick.... but they stopped here and there for pictures and we forged ahead..
Ron and Matt tried for climb again... they got the ok... just made it before the winds picked up to 40 miles an hour.. then it was closed, but they were already on their way...
According to matt ron saved a woman on the top.. she was starting to slip.. he grabbed her before she was blown over by the wind... grabbed her by her left breast.. it was an ample breast, plenty for anyone.. so we were told... ron actually beat the 22 yr. old to the top of uliru...
Dropped maeliss and nicolas off at ayers airport... they flew into ayers rock not knowing how expensive it was to stay there and take tours, so they had to come to alice springs for the hostel and the tour...which is 300 miles away... they were off to sydney , nz and fiji....easter island and then back to paris... where they live and work...
Dropped off swags at first campsite for next group... then headed to Alice Springs airport for Alex... just made it.. heading back to England... he was working at some summer conservation job...
Back to the hostel, shower and 5$ supper with group... sam still celebrating his 21st birthday with shots... amije, a belgian girl.. won pin the tail on the donkey..it was a sweep for the women.. table dancing and conga line... we left before the table dancing, heard the conga line go by our door... we heard the next morning that ron and joan, the oldest people there.. were dancing on tables.. amije's boyfriend, jochem... he used to live in majorca for 4 years...worked in a club... some kind of act...he is musical and very funny..... and very considerate .. when ron got overheated on the first hike, jochem stayed close by.. of course ron did recuperate quickly.. he climbed Rainier and some of the Himalayas when he was young ... and now uliru at 80....
written up by toots from fb's superb notes.....
College student, Sam, birthday party... brits bought cake , champagne, funny glasses and a button that said.. i am 21...
Off to uliru for base walk... 8 miles around the rock... it alternated between scrub brush and trees.... it sort of became a race.. we were in the rear.. the germans are so fast.. the hopping guy, the fastest .. and rons wife joan.. a smoker,,, deceptively quick.... but they stopped here and there for pictures and we forged ahead..
Ron and Matt tried for climb again... they got the ok... just made it before the winds picked up to 40 miles an hour.. then it was closed, but they were already on their way...
According to matt ron saved a woman on the top.. she was starting to slip.. he grabbed her before she was blown over by the wind... grabbed her by her left breast.. it was an ample breast, plenty for anyone.. so we were told... ron actually beat the 22 yr. old to the top of uliru...
Dropped maeliss and nicolas off at ayers airport... they flew into ayers rock not knowing how expensive it was to stay there and take tours, so they had to come to alice springs for the hostel and the tour...which is 300 miles away... they were off to sydney , nz and fiji....easter island and then back to paris... where they live and work...
Dropped off swags at first campsite for next group... then headed to Alice Springs airport for Alex... just made it.. heading back to England... he was working at some summer conservation job...
Back to the hostel, shower and 5$ supper with group... sam still celebrating his 21st birthday with shots... amije, a belgian girl.. won pin the tail on the donkey..it was a sweep for the women.. table dancing and conga line... we left before the table dancing, heard the conga line go by our door... we heard the next morning that ron and joan, the oldest people there.. were dancing on tables.. amije's boyfriend, jochem... he used to live in majorca for 4 years...worked in a club... some kind of act...he is musical and very funny..... and very considerate .. when ron got overheated on the first hike, jochem stayed close by.. of course ron did recuperate quickly.. he climbed Rainier and some of the Himalayas when he was young ... and now uliru at 80....
written up by toots from fb's superb notes.....
first glimpse
Woke up deep in the sleeping bag at six a.m... with mark starting fire... rolled up swags while mark got breakfast ready.. wheatabix, yogurt, apricots, nutella pb and jelly.. into bus, pit stop and then a stop to take pictures of mount connor... drove onto the domes, rounded eroded red melons coming out of ground.. impressive... rose up out of the middle of nowhere, dark against light sky then slowly turning red.. stopped for pictures.. can't get all the domes in one shot..
Got first glimpse of uliru on way to domes, it's more than just a big red rock.. then we got to the domes and of course another toilet break.. out come the toothbrushes, towels and soap.. safari guys, we all stink real bad... domes are beautiful, small passes and paths between them.. tilted like frank gehry.. path starts up then down to dry riverbed with trees and green around it, like cottonwoods following rivers in the southwest..
Mark talked about Aboriginal men going out into bush for a year before marriage.. .. and then future motherinlaw beating them with a stick.. if they scream or can't take it, off they go for another year..
Path continues, twisting among the domes upward.. moist drainage area from cliffs where water collects so trees can grow.. lots of eucalyptus growing in canyons...
Up again to another viewing area and boing.. drop off between cliffs to flat plains, light green vegetation and single smaller domes beyond... like the setting in the movie king solomons mines.. we turned around there , better than walking in the hot plains...
We still haven't had lunch, drive to uliru cultural center where there's a barbeques, benches and a grass roof... meat, tuna , eggs , onions and tomatoes for sandwiches or salad.. a good lunch.. ron the 80 year old and matt the 22 year old go with mark to see if they can climb uliru.. they come back..a storm possible.. they will have to wait until tomorrow...
Mark takes us on a short mala walk, close to the rock... shows us aboriginal petroglyphs, intended for messages, ... messages like,,, there's water here... came to bell shaped cave, a sacred womens site.. aboriginal men not allowed near it, can't see it.. it is a birthing cave... white couple had wedding there..they didn't know it was sacred to aboriginals.. an aboriginal man saw picture in newspaper and knew what it was ... bad karma for him... now all sites, male and female are marked.. no photos.. all sacred sites...
Walk ended in little glen where water runs down face of uliru... water streaks and water caches in rock face , caves and holes all over where water collects... used for drinking....
Drove to parking lot, and went to dunes to see uliru sunset while mark fixed supper.. beautiful sunset, uliru turned red, purple , black and gray.. great sunsets on other side too, with sun behind domes... mark fixed thai chicken noodles..
Back to bus and a new campsite.. music, singing, abba, mama mia and dancing.. stop at alyra resort area, mark refueled, women stripped down in ladies room to wash, brought duffles and backpacks into bathroom... mary got marshmallows , chocolate and crackers for campfire,,.. smores.. went out to collect wood again in the pitch black with headlights strapped to our foreheads... mary, mark , the germans and matt walked a couple hundred yards for deadwood and came across a stash of porno magazines...
Good time around campfire,, ron told stories and sang chanties.. he is a born entertainer... also tom lehr songs... germans showed dance and sang anthem... maeliss and nicolas led us in the marsailles , and showed us a french round dance around fire.. and last but not least the international hokey pokey.. germans got us to hold hands, shake our booties , moving up close to the fire and back again...
Then came the big event of the night , musical swags.. music from bus...loud.. people dropped out.. ron had some good slide moves.. toots and maeliss were the last women.. maeliss out.. told toots to make women proud.. all of a sudden it's toots and 4 guys, then toots and 3 guys, 2 guys... even though they stuck close to their swags and jumped over fire for shortcuts...if they had to..
Suddenly the showdown.. toots and ron.. the dance began.. not just moves but eye contact, posture and defense.. toots and ron danced over the one swag, then toots used basketball moves.. side to side.. back and forth.. they both dropped at end of music and toots hit the swag.. the new champion...
No noisey space blanket tonight, rain jacket instead and fleece jacket for pillow.. much warmer night, not much chitchat even amongst kids.. clouds rolled on..... another night under the stars..
toots wrote this from fb's notes... he will expand later...
Got first glimpse of uliru on way to domes, it's more than just a big red rock.. then we got to the domes and of course another toilet break.. out come the toothbrushes, towels and soap.. safari guys, we all stink real bad... domes are beautiful, small passes and paths between them.. tilted like frank gehry.. path starts up then down to dry riverbed with trees and green around it, like cottonwoods following rivers in the southwest..
Mark talked about Aboriginal men going out into bush for a year before marriage.. .. and then future motherinlaw beating them with a stick.. if they scream or can't take it, off they go for another year..
Path continues, twisting among the domes upward.. moist drainage area from cliffs where water collects so trees can grow.. lots of eucalyptus growing in canyons...
Up again to another viewing area and boing.. drop off between cliffs to flat plains, light green vegetation and single smaller domes beyond... like the setting in the movie king solomons mines.. we turned around there , better than walking in the hot plains...
We still haven't had lunch, drive to uliru cultural center where there's a barbeques, benches and a grass roof... meat, tuna , eggs , onions and tomatoes for sandwiches or salad.. a good lunch.. ron the 80 year old and matt the 22 year old go with mark to see if they can climb uliru.. they come back..a storm possible.. they will have to wait until tomorrow...
Mark takes us on a short mala walk, close to the rock... shows us aboriginal petroglyphs, intended for messages, ... messages like,,, there's water here... came to bell shaped cave, a sacred womens site.. aboriginal men not allowed near it, can't see it.. it is a birthing cave... white couple had wedding there..they didn't know it was sacred to aboriginals.. an aboriginal man saw picture in newspaper and knew what it was ... bad karma for him... now all sites, male and female are marked.. no photos.. all sacred sites...
Walk ended in little glen where water runs down face of uliru... water streaks and water caches in rock face , caves and holes all over where water collects... used for drinking....
Drove to parking lot, and went to dunes to see uliru sunset while mark fixed supper.. beautiful sunset, uliru turned red, purple , black and gray.. great sunsets on other side too, with sun behind domes... mark fixed thai chicken noodles..
Back to bus and a new campsite.. music, singing, abba, mama mia and dancing.. stop at alyra resort area, mark refueled, women stripped down in ladies room to wash, brought duffles and backpacks into bathroom... mary got marshmallows , chocolate and crackers for campfire,,.. smores.. went out to collect wood again in the pitch black with headlights strapped to our foreheads... mary, mark , the germans and matt walked a couple hundred yards for deadwood and came across a stash of porno magazines...
Good time around campfire,, ron told stories and sang chanties.. he is a born entertainer... also tom lehr songs... germans showed dance and sang anthem... maeliss and nicolas led us in the marsailles , and showed us a french round dance around fire.. and last but not least the international hokey pokey.. germans got us to hold hands, shake our booties , moving up close to the fire and back again...
Then came the big event of the night , musical swags.. music from bus...loud.. people dropped out.. ron had some good slide moves.. toots and maeliss were the last women.. maeliss out.. told toots to make women proud.. all of a sudden it's toots and 4 guys, then toots and 3 guys, 2 guys... even though they stuck close to their swags and jumped over fire for shortcuts...if they had to..
Suddenly the showdown.. toots and ron.. the dance began.. not just moves but eye contact, posture and defense.. toots and ron danced over the one swag, then toots used basketball moves.. side to side.. back and forth.. they both dropped at end of music and toots hit the swag.. the new champion...
No noisey space blanket tonight, rain jacket instead and fleece jacket for pillow.. much warmer night, not much chitchat even amongst kids.. clouds rolled on..... another night under the stars..
toots wrote this from fb's notes... he will expand later...
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
What to do about Stew, Part 2
We woke up to frost our first morning on the farm. We had to sleep in a little because Stewart doesn't like getting up too early. Our breakfast came from chickens, not out of a can and there was plenty of toast, tea, coffee and fried tomatoes. Yvonne was in charge of the kitchen this morning and we took advantge of a good meal. She had to help her daughter move and would be in and out for the next few days so anytime she cooked, we ate.
Our first chore was to plant some fruit trees. It seemed pretty simple, dig some holes, take the wrapping off the roots, put them in the hole and cover them up. Stewart said just go ahead, that's all there is to it, he'd be back a little later. Evidently there was more to it. When he got back Stew had to put his stamp on it, like a dog staking out his territory. He had invented a way to plant trees that seemed to us to be just exactly what we did but we just didn't have the trained agricultural eye that he did. We didn't use the proper tools for one thing. He rigged up a post hole digger that took twice as long to make the same hole as our shovels, and our berms around the trees weren't as architecturally correct as his so we had to redo them. I can guarantee the trees will never know the difference, the water will reach the roots just the same and fruit will be blooming in spite of our obvious ignorance, but Stewart was happy - his little self serving grin and one upsmanship convinced us of that.
Next came tea break. Stewart loves his tea and loves to talk during his tea. About himself mostly but if not about himself, then the history of the area - that's something he knows about and we know nothing of so he can lecture for a full half hour. We'd rather skip tea and keep working. The sooner we finish the sooner we can escape to town at the end of our shift - four hours of work each day for free room and board.
Tea time came to an end and it was off to the pistachio trees. March is harvest time so during the summer the groves need to be weeded. Weeding can mean different things to different people. To us it meant putting on gloves, pulling weeds and maybe hoeing a little. To Stewart it meant something else entirely. All the trees are surrounded by thick intertwined vines, like ground juniper, with thick bunches of grass growing around and in between the 3 inch branches. It looked like the heavy steel mats they put over explosives when blasting and had the same strength - dynamite wouldn't have moved them.
Not to fear. Stewart gave us two dull hoes and said all we had to do was chop them out and clear a six foot circle around each tree. For a man who has inventions for everything the least he could have done whas give us sharp hoes. That probably wouldn't have made much difference - under the vines, the ground was covered with rocks. A few quick swings of the hoe and the cutting surfaces flatten out like the short side of a two by four. Toots asked how many times we swung the hoes for each tree - how many stars are in the sky, how many fish in the sea, how many grains of sand on the beach.
Lunch time came and Stewart, who had been helping someone up the road, called us in. That's as far as Stew got. Yvonne was out with her daughter so Toots got to fix lunch. There was a chicken in the fridge and some bread and the quickest meal looked like sandwiches, some tea and back to the fields before Stew could start talking.
That didn't happen. The longer lunch takes, the more he can talk and this time we found out about he became born again a few years earlier. He also speaks in tongues and has helped in healings. We just nodded eating as fast as we could - the vines and rocks were looking pretty good right now.
Once we got back to the trees they didn't look so good though and we knew we needed to get out. We had to make a break for it somehow and make it soon; seven days seemed like a galaxy far away and we had no intention of going there.
Three o'oclock seemed like years coming, but we saw Stewart driving back, as much to make sure we were still working as to let us know we could stop. Hallelujah, it's time to go to town, visit the library, get on the internet and found out how to blow this town.
It turns out there is no longer a regular bus service in Quorn. There is however, a weekly bus that takes people to Port Augusta once a week for shopping. From Port Augusta there's a bus or train to Alice Springs and that put hundreds of miles and twenty hours between us and the trees. The bus leaves in two days - we have one more day of hoeing and a way to make our break.
We come back to watch tv with Stewart and Yvonne. His favorite show is on - all about inventions by people who hope to make it big. None of them take as much thought or ingenuity as his and probably don't have a chance of making it big. His next favorite show is a weekly news show that interviews Australian politicians - and wouldn't you know it, they have never listened to Stewart.
Another cup of tea and it's time to go to bed.
The next morning we wake up early and start early - we're on a mission and that includes finishing as early as we can and hopefully our work schedule will keep us in the field when Stewart is having breakfast and lunch. It works, and it confuses him - he says not to worry "I won't fire you", not knowing we're about to fire him.
After clearing out thirty five trees and getting down to bear dirt around all of them my back all of a sudden acts up. Limping back to the house, walking slow to make sure no one can mistake just how "serious" my injury is, we tell Stewart we just can't do anymore. He accepts it well and says he understands and that it's a real shame - he was going to help us the next day (yeah, right) and he had some easier jobs for us ( yeah, right). Those trees had never been "weeded" and they weren't about to be until someone else landed in his web.
Yvonne found some linament for us and Stewart suggested that some friends could come over and lay hands on my back to cure it, but I assured him that I'd had the problem before and just needed a few days of rest. Yvonne said she could drive us to Port Augusta but we told her that when we went into town during lunch and got tickets on the bus because we knew it would have to be our last day.
The day wasn't over yet though. There was a barbeque that night for one of their friends who was leaving town and Stewart got his last dig in - we were going, back pain or no. It was a little bit like Brer Rabbit and the Briar Patch for us though - we go the barbeque and there's a whole house full of people who aren't Stewart.
toots here.......
back to original style.. fb writes i add some missing links.. he has caught up with his journal.. not crazy about barbeque at first.. but we should go and do.. tired... ended up being fun... met peter an ole car buff.. nice guy who runs a holiday farm..been to the states and liked it.. to car shows and west... the wine flows.. stewart doing ok.. had a few.. yvonne talking with all.. stew more quiet.. we talk to people... all the ladies are nurses in the little hospital... yvonne had to quit.. bad back..cant life patients.. its getting cold sitting there... yvonne wants to leave.. stewart still pouring some wine,, fella next to me.. walking with 2 canes.. 50's...football in high school... shot by one of best friends.. accident..in head... affected mobility... still burly, in wheelchair all night... racous, didnt drink and still friends with guy who's gun he said he got in front of.. my fault he said.. they were out shooting kangaroos at night with flashlights..a typical sport of aussies... friend takes care of grantley.. whatever he needs.. grantley married to one of nurses there... guy named peter there..he was in an accident.. car rolled over.. stitched his arm back on.. still drives and cooks a mean barbeque.. used todrive tour bus in northern territory.. he and wife going to egypt celebrating her 60th.. we enjoyed all these nice people....
back at stewars and yvonnes we are made hot chocolate... sit, chat, watch political show... next morning up and out... we left on a pleasant note.. i am sure they enjoyed us as much as we did them.. good experience... yvonne so cool .. artist.. interesting.. not as religious......she was apparently hurt by some religious folks.. perhaps by talk.. dont know... really liked the friends and quentin my favorite... he said he had been cured of cancer by laying hands.. now a stroke.. i wouldnt have known that.. quentin rescued us from the leaning on the hoe stance.. made stew drag us in for tea and cookies... he yelled to us in the field.. "get in here now , stewart will push you for 24 hours straight.. " ha... loved that quentin... good soul, felt like we knew him... he was cadfael.. the detective in the cadfael mysteries... ha
Our first chore was to plant some fruit trees. It seemed pretty simple, dig some holes, take the wrapping off the roots, put them in the hole and cover them up. Stewart said just go ahead, that's all there is to it, he'd be back a little later. Evidently there was more to it. When he got back Stew had to put his stamp on it, like a dog staking out his territory. He had invented a way to plant trees that seemed to us to be just exactly what we did but we just didn't have the trained agricultural eye that he did. We didn't use the proper tools for one thing. He rigged up a post hole digger that took twice as long to make the same hole as our shovels, and our berms around the trees weren't as architecturally correct as his so we had to redo them. I can guarantee the trees will never know the difference, the water will reach the roots just the same and fruit will be blooming in spite of our obvious ignorance, but Stewart was happy - his little self serving grin and one upsmanship convinced us of that.
Next came tea break. Stewart loves his tea and loves to talk during his tea. About himself mostly but if not about himself, then the history of the area - that's something he knows about and we know nothing of so he can lecture for a full half hour. We'd rather skip tea and keep working. The sooner we finish the sooner we can escape to town at the end of our shift - four hours of work each day for free room and board.
Tea time came to an end and it was off to the pistachio trees. March is harvest time so during the summer the groves need to be weeded. Weeding can mean different things to different people. To us it meant putting on gloves, pulling weeds and maybe hoeing a little. To Stewart it meant something else entirely. All the trees are surrounded by thick intertwined vines, like ground juniper, with thick bunches of grass growing around and in between the 3 inch branches. It looked like the heavy steel mats they put over explosives when blasting and had the same strength - dynamite wouldn't have moved them.
Not to fear. Stewart gave us two dull hoes and said all we had to do was chop them out and clear a six foot circle around each tree. For a man who has inventions for everything the least he could have done whas give us sharp hoes. That probably wouldn't have made much difference - under the vines, the ground was covered with rocks. A few quick swings of the hoe and the cutting surfaces flatten out like the short side of a two by four. Toots asked how many times we swung the hoes for each tree - how many stars are in the sky, how many fish in the sea, how many grains of sand on the beach.
Lunch time came and Stewart, who had been helping someone up the road, called us in. That's as far as Stew got. Yvonne was out with her daughter so Toots got to fix lunch. There was a chicken in the fridge and some bread and the quickest meal looked like sandwiches, some tea and back to the fields before Stew could start talking.
That didn't happen. The longer lunch takes, the more he can talk and this time we found out about he became born again a few years earlier. He also speaks in tongues and has helped in healings. We just nodded eating as fast as we could - the vines and rocks were looking pretty good right now.
Once we got back to the trees they didn't look so good though and we knew we needed to get out. We had to make a break for it somehow and make it soon; seven days seemed like a galaxy far away and we had no intention of going there.
Three o'oclock seemed like years coming, but we saw Stewart driving back, as much to make sure we were still working as to let us know we could stop. Hallelujah, it's time to go to town, visit the library, get on the internet and found out how to blow this town.
It turns out there is no longer a regular bus service in Quorn. There is however, a weekly bus that takes people to Port Augusta once a week for shopping. From Port Augusta there's a bus or train to Alice Springs and that put hundreds of miles and twenty hours between us and the trees. The bus leaves in two days - we have one more day of hoeing and a way to make our break.
We come back to watch tv with Stewart and Yvonne. His favorite show is on - all about inventions by people who hope to make it big. None of them take as much thought or ingenuity as his and probably don't have a chance of making it big. His next favorite show is a weekly news show that interviews Australian politicians - and wouldn't you know it, they have never listened to Stewart.
Another cup of tea and it's time to go to bed.
The next morning we wake up early and start early - we're on a mission and that includes finishing as early as we can and hopefully our work schedule will keep us in the field when Stewart is having breakfast and lunch. It works, and it confuses him - he says not to worry "I won't fire you", not knowing we're about to fire him.
After clearing out thirty five trees and getting down to bear dirt around all of them my back all of a sudden acts up. Limping back to the house, walking slow to make sure no one can mistake just how "serious" my injury is, we tell Stewart we just can't do anymore. He accepts it well and says he understands and that it's a real shame - he was going to help us the next day (yeah, right) and he had some easier jobs for us ( yeah, right). Those trees had never been "weeded" and they weren't about to be until someone else landed in his web.
Yvonne found some linament for us and Stewart suggested that some friends could come over and lay hands on my back to cure it, but I assured him that I'd had the problem before and just needed a few days of rest. Yvonne said she could drive us to Port Augusta but we told her that when we went into town during lunch and got tickets on the bus because we knew it would have to be our last day.
The day wasn't over yet though. There was a barbeque that night for one of their friends who was leaving town and Stewart got his last dig in - we were going, back pain or no. It was a little bit like Brer Rabbit and the Briar Patch for us though - we go the barbeque and there's a whole house full of people who aren't Stewart.
toots here.......
back to original style.. fb writes i add some missing links.. he has caught up with his journal.. not crazy about barbeque at first.. but we should go and do.. tired... ended up being fun... met peter an ole car buff.. nice guy who runs a holiday farm..been to the states and liked it.. to car shows and west... the wine flows.. stewart doing ok.. had a few.. yvonne talking with all.. stew more quiet.. we talk to people... all the ladies are nurses in the little hospital... yvonne had to quit.. bad back..cant life patients.. its getting cold sitting there... yvonne wants to leave.. stewart still pouring some wine,, fella next to me.. walking with 2 canes.. 50's...football in high school... shot by one of best friends.. accident..in head... affected mobility... still burly, in wheelchair all night... racous, didnt drink and still friends with guy who's gun he said he got in front of.. my fault he said.. they were out shooting kangaroos at night with flashlights..a typical sport of aussies... friend takes care of grantley.. whatever he needs.. grantley married to one of nurses there... guy named peter there..he was in an accident.. car rolled over.. stitched his arm back on.. still drives and cooks a mean barbeque.. used todrive tour bus in northern territory.. he and wife going to egypt celebrating her 60th.. we enjoyed all these nice people....
back at stewars and yvonnes we are made hot chocolate... sit, chat, watch political show... next morning up and out... we left on a pleasant note.. i am sure they enjoyed us as much as we did them.. good experience... yvonne so cool .. artist.. interesting.. not as religious......she was apparently hurt by some religious folks.. perhaps by talk.. dont know... really liked the friends and quentin my favorite... he said he had been cured of cancer by laying hands.. now a stroke.. i wouldnt have known that.. quentin rescued us from the leaning on the hoe stance.. made stew drag us in for tea and cookies... he yelled to us in the field.. "get in here now , stewart will push you for 24 hours straight.. " ha... loved that quentin... good soul, felt like we knew him... he was cadfael.. the detective in the cadfael mysteries... ha
Saturday, August 30, 2008
hotsy totsy alice... sat.. july 26 sun..,27 mon..,28
ps.. on the bus ride to alice.. there were families of aboriginies...they spoke to each other alot .. the language very musical and beautiful.. they look you straight in the eyes and dont turn away... very cool people.. they got off the bus in the middle of nowhere and had someone waiting for them.. they drove down a dirt road... some got off at roadhouse at walked somewhere... it was desert area.. red dirt , scrub brush...
got off bus in alice.. started walking wrong way to hostel.. annie's... but got there... alice is pretty.. hot too.... hostel laid back, a pool, some kind of hockey played under the lights across the street... high school kids... kitchen not well supplied but free peanut butter and jelly sandwiches offered for breakfast and coffee,, instant.. we took advantage.. an irish girl behind counter,, girl from holland getting married soon to one of the tour guides and living in alice.. music throughout.. loud but quiet after 11...restaurant and bar attached.. 5$meals offered.. lots of internet spots..nice japanese gir who said her mom would put us up in japan but we never got her address.. ha.. some english, scotch , american mom and daughter.. french, belgian couple...
we opted for a campout tour of uliru, thinking this would be the best way to see the red center and experience australia since we couldnt see it all.. it was for monday, tuesday and back on wednesday.. we spotted a much older couple standing around, hoping they would be in our group.. .. make us not the oldest.. hahahaha...
next morning.. sunday we went into town.. music played by an aboriginal band on town green.. rocking out. very good too.... too hot here for us... putzed around.... town.. kind of touristy.. aboriginals , except for that band, not doing much except sitting in cool places or walking around.. pretty sad...
monday morning.. all to meet at 5'30... grab free pnut butter sand.. get on bus for tour.. our guide a guy names mark.. good guide.. the american mary and mom martha, ron and joan the older couple.. him 80 .. joan.. 75.. he had climbed rainier.. tetons and more.. and wanted to climb up ayers.. they only let you go if the wind is not blowing.. it usually is on top... we walked up a canyon.. it was hot.. kings canyon... ron left us in the dust... going like a house a fire.. and joan his smoking wife did alright too.. she looked like an older gene tierney.. she a retired teacher in private.. fast walker .. but the fastest were the fastest.. damn... there were about 6 of them... one guy spoke no english, quiet.. one a hoot.. i called him kangaroo man cause he hopped around.. he seemed to always be warming up for something, running, hopping.. exercises.. anywhere anytime.. there were about 6 young brit kids, funny as hell.. some finished university, others on holiday... mark played a good assortment of music.. loud... he made us sandwiches for our trek up that canyon.. for lunch.. and for supper camel meat and bean stew.. 2 of us veggie.. he held the camel.. ha fb said good.. a little gamey.. or as he called it.. chili con camel.. wash own dishes..
we started up the hill.. hot.. .. it was a called heart attack hill.. steps like monadnock..to the top of a ridge then a walk around the blazing hot rim.. 80 yr old ron was right up there with the leaders... not us or me i should say.. but at end ron ran out of steam.. he got sort of sick.. luckily we had oranges. we gave him some and he got his engine started again... had my gatorade and downhill was lookin good..
got to campsite.. pitch black.. whats going on.. mark says.. need people to search for firewood.. put our headlights on and off we go into the bush .. pitch black so only can see what headlights show.. not much... listened for voices of the leaders... dragged dead, dry trees back to site.. get the swags out.. sleeping bags.. mark has everyone help.. lay them in circle around fire.. this is a chilly night.. in forties... lots of stars.. big milky way and southern cross.. milky way looked 3 dimensional.. time for bed.. i didnt sleep well.. but whats new.. cold.. at 6 am mark yells time to get going.. did we join the army.. made fire.. mark serves yogurt , wheatabix, bread and apricot in can.. pnut butter sand..of course and a favorite of all.. nutella... clean up, roll up swags.. get things put away.. get on bus, driving to uliru..lots of driving on this trip.. glad we went on tour and left driving to them...
forgot..... on the way to this canyon we stopped at a place that gave camel rides.. and there was a dingo there, kangaroos and emus.. a few took rides.. camels galloped.. saw some wild ones later.. if you can bring them in alive you get 1000 bucks... tons of wild camels in australia... the sunset bright bright orangey red.. big sky..
got off bus in alice.. started walking wrong way to hostel.. annie's... but got there... alice is pretty.. hot too.... hostel laid back, a pool, some kind of hockey played under the lights across the street... high school kids... kitchen not well supplied but free peanut butter and jelly sandwiches offered for breakfast and coffee,, instant.. we took advantage.. an irish girl behind counter,, girl from holland getting married soon to one of the tour guides and living in alice.. music throughout.. loud but quiet after 11...restaurant and bar attached.. 5$meals offered.. lots of internet spots..nice japanese gir who said her mom would put us up in japan but we never got her address.. ha.. some english, scotch , american mom and daughter.. french, belgian couple...
we opted for a campout tour of uliru, thinking this would be the best way to see the red center and experience australia since we couldnt see it all.. it was for monday, tuesday and back on wednesday.. we spotted a much older couple standing around, hoping they would be in our group.. .. make us not the oldest.. hahahaha...
next morning.. sunday we went into town.. music played by an aboriginal band on town green.. rocking out. very good too.... too hot here for us... putzed around.... town.. kind of touristy.. aboriginals , except for that band, not doing much except sitting in cool places or walking around.. pretty sad...
monday morning.. all to meet at 5'30... grab free pnut butter sand.. get on bus for tour.. our guide a guy names mark.. good guide.. the american mary and mom martha, ron and joan the older couple.. him 80 .. joan.. 75.. he had climbed rainier.. tetons and more.. and wanted to climb up ayers.. they only let you go if the wind is not blowing.. it usually is on top... we walked up a canyon.. it was hot.. kings canyon... ron left us in the dust... going like a house a fire.. and joan his smoking wife did alright too.. she looked like an older gene tierney.. she a retired teacher in private.. fast walker .. but the fastest were the fastest.. damn... there were about 6 of them... one guy spoke no english, quiet.. one a hoot.. i called him kangaroo man cause he hopped around.. he seemed to always be warming up for something, running, hopping.. exercises.. anywhere anytime.. there were about 6 young brit kids, funny as hell.. some finished university, others on holiday... mark played a good assortment of music.. loud... he made us sandwiches for our trek up that canyon.. for lunch.. and for supper camel meat and bean stew.. 2 of us veggie.. he held the camel.. ha fb said good.. a little gamey.. or as he called it.. chili con camel.. wash own dishes..
we started up the hill.. hot.. .. it was a called heart attack hill.. steps like monadnock..to the top of a ridge then a walk around the blazing hot rim.. 80 yr old ron was right up there with the leaders... not us or me i should say.. but at end ron ran out of steam.. he got sort of sick.. luckily we had oranges. we gave him some and he got his engine started again... had my gatorade and downhill was lookin good..
got to campsite.. pitch black.. whats going on.. mark says.. need people to search for firewood.. put our headlights on and off we go into the bush .. pitch black so only can see what headlights show.. not much... listened for voices of the leaders... dragged dead, dry trees back to site.. get the swags out.. sleeping bags.. mark has everyone help.. lay them in circle around fire.. this is a chilly night.. in forties... lots of stars.. big milky way and southern cross.. milky way looked 3 dimensional.. time for bed.. i didnt sleep well.. but whats new.. cold.. at 6 am mark yells time to get going.. did we join the army.. made fire.. mark serves yogurt , wheatabix, bread and apricot in can.. pnut butter sand..of course and a favorite of all.. nutella... clean up, roll up swags.. get things put away.. get on bus, driving to uliru..lots of driving on this trip.. glad we went on tour and left driving to them...
forgot..... on the way to this canyon we stopped at a place that gave camel rides.. and there was a dingo there, kangaroos and emus.. a few took rides.. camels galloped.. saw some wild ones later.. if you can bring them in alive you get 1000 bucks... tons of wild camels in australia... the sunset bright bright orangey red.. big sky..
off to strangeland... fb will return with the rest of stewart..
friday.. july 25, 2008
we hear yvonne puttering around early.. same routine, bathrooom, shower , now preparing breakfast.. she made an omelet, toast and grilled tomato halves.. forgot how much i like tomatoes with eggs... yvonne actually seemed lighter after we told her we had to leave due to fb's bad back... fb will explain the dramatic role he pulled off... boy he fooled me... a real pro this guy... we think that yvonne was feeling guilty about not being around to host the woofers from afar.. and about the amount of work stewie dealt us.. in her defense she was busy helping her daughter move... dont blame her... we really didnt need anyone to be there...they dont get many woofers in quorn as they are off the beaten track.. who knows what suckers they will get to do this job next..
yvonne drove us to the bus. stewie seemed abit sheepish.. the street was desolate my friends...except for the lone guy with long hair sitting on a curb reading..another girl came by.. they knew each other so he spoke.. and he did give us some help.. told us to go to travel agent for questions about train to darwin... the bus driver on this ride to strangeland was nice and friendly.. one older lady talking loud in the back of bus.. other older people with walkers that have been piled in a heap in the front of bus by driver, brian. a younger guy with a walker that we picked up right in front of his home and a bleach blonde lady dressed in pink from head to toe.. that we had to go back after as brian forgot her..how could he forget a lady in pink... he was in good spirits about it.. the people go in on fridays for shopping and dr. appts.. etc.. we bumped into one of the people that we met at the barbeque.. that story you dont know yet.. this lady said.. come back to australia.. we'll take care of you and laughed.. she and her hubby going on a holiday for 2 weeks fishing and then to south america...
port augusta or strangeland was kind of depressing.. to put it mildly.. wouldnt want to stay there long, not even overnight.. so we went to travel agaent and got bus ticket to alice springs. overnight... had all day on our hands so we went to the library for quite a while.. art gallery... loud teens at library .. finally at 6 .. library closing time we went back to bus station.. pretty dreary.. a man looking like jesus. long hair.. i thought a bum sort of.. but he bought his own food, not cheap,,, had a ticket... and when we got to alice he was heading to darwin next... maybe a bus pass... nice rucksack.. old style... and he looked like he had a crown of thorns around his head... back to station.. woman working there made us beans and eggs.. good cowboy grub.. wondered why we would go to ayers rock.. only a big red rock she said... maybe she was a philosopher... it is a very spiritual rock for the aboriginals... she had no interest in much travel.. lived in port augusta all her life.. lots of aboriginals walking around .. none have jobs.. very hot.. maoris seem to mix into their towns, work, and have businesses...
slept for awhile on bus..the usual gas and potty stops at roadhouses..coffee for driver... no loud music on this bus.. driver also served as mail deliverer... stopped at rural roadside places and put mail in these tall white boxes..then locked them... he braked a few times.. assume for kangaroos.. it was pitch black...
we hear yvonne puttering around early.. same routine, bathrooom, shower , now preparing breakfast.. she made an omelet, toast and grilled tomato halves.. forgot how much i like tomatoes with eggs... yvonne actually seemed lighter after we told her we had to leave due to fb's bad back... fb will explain the dramatic role he pulled off... boy he fooled me... a real pro this guy... we think that yvonne was feeling guilty about not being around to host the woofers from afar.. and about the amount of work stewie dealt us.. in her defense she was busy helping her daughter move... dont blame her... we really didnt need anyone to be there...they dont get many woofers in quorn as they are off the beaten track.. who knows what suckers they will get to do this job next..
yvonne drove us to the bus. stewie seemed abit sheepish.. the street was desolate my friends...except for the lone guy with long hair sitting on a curb reading..another girl came by.. they knew each other so he spoke.. and he did give us some help.. told us to go to travel agent for questions about train to darwin... the bus driver on this ride to strangeland was nice and friendly.. one older lady talking loud in the back of bus.. other older people with walkers that have been piled in a heap in the front of bus by driver, brian. a younger guy with a walker that we picked up right in front of his home and a bleach blonde lady dressed in pink from head to toe.. that we had to go back after as brian forgot her..how could he forget a lady in pink... he was in good spirits about it.. the people go in on fridays for shopping and dr. appts.. etc.. we bumped into one of the people that we met at the barbeque.. that story you dont know yet.. this lady said.. come back to australia.. we'll take care of you and laughed.. she and her hubby going on a holiday for 2 weeks fishing and then to south america...
port augusta or strangeland was kind of depressing.. to put it mildly.. wouldnt want to stay there long, not even overnight.. so we went to travel agaent and got bus ticket to alice springs. overnight... had all day on our hands so we went to the library for quite a while.. art gallery... loud teens at library .. finally at 6 .. library closing time we went back to bus station.. pretty dreary.. a man looking like jesus. long hair.. i thought a bum sort of.. but he bought his own food, not cheap,,, had a ticket... and when we got to alice he was heading to darwin next... maybe a bus pass... nice rucksack.. old style... and he looked like he had a crown of thorns around his head... back to station.. woman working there made us beans and eggs.. good cowboy grub.. wondered why we would go to ayers rock.. only a big red rock she said... maybe she was a philosopher... it is a very spiritual rock for the aboriginals... she had no interest in much travel.. lived in port augusta all her life.. lots of aboriginals walking around .. none have jobs.. very hot.. maoris seem to mix into their towns, work, and have businesses...
slept for awhile on bus..the usual gas and potty stops at roadhouses..coffee for driver... no loud music on this bus.. driver also served as mail deliverer... stopped at rural roadside places and put mail in these tall white boxes..then locked them... he braked a few times.. assume for kangaroos.. it was pitch black...
Friday, August 29, 2008
goin to the farm... fb here... July 22nd
We woke up ready and raring to hit the farm and do our bit of wwoofing. We found out that pistachios grow on trees and felt confident that we could bluff our way through the rest.
We had organic muffins and coffee, an auspicious start for Australia, where our best meal had been a Subway tuna sandwich, and headed over the the Festival Center in Adelaide where Stewart and Yvonne would pick us up. Stewart had told us what kind of car he had but neither of us knew what the make of model looked like so we sat on a wall watching parrots fly just above our heads and hoped we looked like two people waiting to get back to nature.
A small pickup flashed it's lights, pulled in and Stewart jumped out. He grabbed our packs, threw them in the back and we got in the two rear seats.
Both Stewart and Yvonne had been nurses. Stewart was in the Army and Yvonne had worked in hospitals. They had recently retired and moved back to Quorn, Yvonne's home town moving into an old trainmaster's house at the end of a rail line. Yvonne continued nursing for awhile and Stewart decided pistachios were the answer to his retirement dream.
After heading out through North Adelaide and into the Baroosa Wine District Stewart stopped talking long enough for us to ask a few questions. Our first - have you ever been to the States - was answered with "No, I've never had the slightest desire to see the U.S." We let that pass and let him keep talking.
The next conversation was between Stewart and Yvonne. She said they had some friends they'd like us to meet - a bohemian couple who are building a beautiful two story house out of native wood and stone. Stewart informed all of us that it wasn't a "2 story house" that there is no such thing, that it's really a house with 2 floors. Now we started to form some opionions. Everyone in the world calls it a 2 stories but if Stewart says no, it must be so.
This would be the first of many Stewartisms. We also found out that there is too much education in the world, that far too many people go to college and that no one learns a trade anymore. On our way through some small towns looking for a place for lunch, Yvonne hesitated at suggesting to stop at a small cafe so Stewart said too bad, you had your change we're going to the local bistro. Evidently it would have been too great a hardship for him to turn around or stop and park and walk 50 yards back. We felt like we were getting to know the man.
On arriving at their house, Yvonne got ready to go to an art class in Port Augusta and wouldn't be back for four hours. That left us alone with Stewart. He gave us a quick tour of the yard and gardens and showed us the pistachio grove. Our job for the next seven days would be weeding around the trees. He likes people to commit to seven days because it's too disruptive if they stay for any less than that. A week was beginning to look like a long time.
It was time to go inside and for Stewart to take his nap. Like every home or hostel we had seen in Australia there was no central heat so Stew loaded up the wood stove. Finally something I felt I could discuss with a certain knowledge. I made the mistake of calling it a wood stove. Like a 2 story house there is no such thing as a wood stove, Stewart has a "wood burner" and he has his own way of starting it, a process he referred to as "one of my many inventions" one that like his others would make life much easier for people if only they would follow his advice.
It was up to Stewart to make supper for all of us before his nap he pulled out a loaf of bread and a can of spaghetti. It hardly seemed the type of meal to serve at an organic farm but if we got through it quickly Stewart would be napping all that much sooner.
Our highlight of the day was walking out the door and heading to town - it's been in a number of movies and is actually a really nice little outpost on the flat plains just at the foothills of the Flinders Ranges - more on the town, Stewart and our farming to continue later.
We had organic muffins and coffee, an auspicious start for Australia, where our best meal had been a Subway tuna sandwich, and headed over the the Festival Center in Adelaide where Stewart and Yvonne would pick us up. Stewart had told us what kind of car he had but neither of us knew what the make of model looked like so we sat on a wall watching parrots fly just above our heads and hoped we looked like two people waiting to get back to nature.
A small pickup flashed it's lights, pulled in and Stewart jumped out. He grabbed our packs, threw them in the back and we got in the two rear seats.
Both Stewart and Yvonne had been nurses. Stewart was in the Army and Yvonne had worked in hospitals. They had recently retired and moved back to Quorn, Yvonne's home town moving into an old trainmaster's house at the end of a rail line. Yvonne continued nursing for awhile and Stewart decided pistachios were the answer to his retirement dream.
After heading out through North Adelaide and into the Baroosa Wine District Stewart stopped talking long enough for us to ask a few questions. Our first - have you ever been to the States - was answered with "No, I've never had the slightest desire to see the U.S." We let that pass and let him keep talking.
The next conversation was between Stewart and Yvonne. She said they had some friends they'd like us to meet - a bohemian couple who are building a beautiful two story house out of native wood and stone. Stewart informed all of us that it wasn't a "2 story house" that there is no such thing, that it's really a house with 2 floors. Now we started to form some opionions. Everyone in the world calls it a 2 stories but if Stewart says no, it must be so.
This would be the first of many Stewartisms. We also found out that there is too much education in the world, that far too many people go to college and that no one learns a trade anymore. On our way through some small towns looking for a place for lunch, Yvonne hesitated at suggesting to stop at a small cafe so Stewart said too bad, you had your change we're going to the local bistro. Evidently it would have been too great a hardship for him to turn around or stop and park and walk 50 yards back. We felt like we were getting to know the man.
On arriving at their house, Yvonne got ready to go to an art class in Port Augusta and wouldn't be back for four hours. That left us alone with Stewart. He gave us a quick tour of the yard and gardens and showed us the pistachio grove. Our job for the next seven days would be weeding around the trees. He likes people to commit to seven days because it's too disruptive if they stay for any less than that. A week was beginning to look like a long time.
It was time to go inside and for Stewart to take his nap. Like every home or hostel we had seen in Australia there was no central heat so Stew loaded up the wood stove. Finally something I felt I could discuss with a certain knowledge. I made the mistake of calling it a wood stove. Like a 2 story house there is no such thing as a wood stove, Stewart has a "wood burner" and he has his own way of starting it, a process he referred to as "one of my many inventions" one that like his others would make life much easier for people if only they would follow his advice.
It was up to Stewart to make supper for all of us before his nap he pulled out a loaf of bread and a can of spaghetti. It hardly seemed the type of meal to serve at an organic farm but if we got through it quickly Stewart would be napping all that much sooner.
Our highlight of the day was walking out the door and heading to town - it's been in a number of movies and is actually a really nice little outpost on the flat plains just at the foothills of the Flinders Ranges - more on the town, Stewart and our farming to continue later.
adelaide... monday. july 21
before i go into the day.. when we first got to adelaide.. it was sunday morning.. early.. we got toa street that we thought looked cool... old hotels,, until we saw the debris from sat. nights activities.. while having coffee at macs... the only place open.,. walked along .. cops say to us.. dont even think of getting a place on this street.. it hit us.. oh.. yeah .. right.. ended up at that hotel .... few streets over... walk. walk to get coffee,, book store, breakfast... split a spinach and potato wrap.. health food store.. went to museum and gallery.. awesome.. aboriginal art in both.. tea .. japanese fried noodles in a real japanese looking rest. and he was japanese.. took pic.. had a conveyer belt.. in red light district.. but not scary as it was a work day and late afternoon.. streets crowded.. workers.. lots of asians here.. univ. of adelaide nice.. nice architecture in town.. smaller than melbourne.. melbourne with its overcrowded streets.. hard to even walk down them... picked up our toothpaste, powder etc at a woolworths.. has a food store in the downstairs and all else upstairs.. alot of little walkways in malls that have yet more stores.. cafeteria like places.. 50;s,,wide streets.. really enjoyed museum and gallery.. called stewart the pistachio man... tues... 9 in morning... museum had south pacific section. masks, sailboat, pontoon... with rope sail.. house, new guinea.. weapons, shields, spear, art.. vanessa bell duncan grants wife.. australian art and aboriginal on thin wood.. bark paintings.morris, fabric.. stainglass..... back at hotel after baked pots at woolworths.. and some raw cashews.. get to watch burn notice.. and a mystery.. hooray
july 19.. up and out. ready for adelaide and sun..20th
like i said up at 5.. got bread and coffee.. and brie.. sushi throughout day.. went to bus station.. 2 tkts for night bus to adelaide.. 50 bucks each.. thanks god... no room ahead but we had all day.. in at 8;30...before the bus ride to adelaide we had time to check out melbourne.. good day.. locked bags at bus station.. took train to st. kilda area.. recommended to us by a young girl crossing the street.. really... looked like provincetown.. streets hippie ish..cool, cafes, bakeries.. looked like an old seaside town .. carnival, permanent..fixture...rides looked like something from 50's.. now its a richer place.. boats.. melbourne has fine suburbs.. went by schools with kids in uniforms playing sports.. green greass, well kept,, fla. keyish.. small homes.. walked .. went to casino lost 5 bucks.. no luck here either.... back to federation square where church is.. big tiv ouytside, watching games.. back to gallery museum.. they were dancing in tea section.. a girl giving charleston lessons for all... we joined in.. fun...then off to the moving image gallery ,, movies etc.. they were showing the 1933 goldiggers on big big screen.. it was wonderful...joan blondell starred in it.. and we rested fb's big dawgs and my littler ones... grabbed some noodles at bus station.. get on bus.. driver playing music.. they stopped twice for coffee, etc.....hard tosleep. call the truckstops roadhouses.. not much inbetween.. dark but we could see landscape.. pulled into smaller city.. adelaide... found hotel.. .. emailed pistachio guy.. he will pick us up at a given spot...... sometime.. oh.. tues.. we are told
july 18... heading to australia
up at 3'30.. packed night before, checked weight of bags.. tore off dirty linens .. out the door.. by 4.. pick due 4'15.. nice lady driver.. she worked all night as a shuttle driver to airport.. her parner worked all day.. getting on flight easy but they send u to another line to pay 25 bucks for departure.. should be in aussie about 9..2 hr. diff from nz.. have tobuy food on plane .. brought biscuits nd bouth tea... will call pistachio guy today.. from quorn..getting close to outback.. and flinders nat's park.. got shuttle from airport to southern cross station.. raining.. we walked .. 30 min.. got to a blue bldg. near victoria market.. holey moley is that big.... city bustling..lots of people lots of suchi places .. good and pretty cheap.. the roll ups... back to the blue bldg.. got in.. smelled of lysol.. very strong to cover worse odors.. next to loud bar... i knew we were in trouble when i smelled that lysol.. girl running it was nice.. dipsy.. from nj in her defense.. she did ask if we wanted to see room.. advice to anyone.. always look... no place available in melbourne.. late tired...desperate... like the place dad and i had in berkeley.. when we escaped in middle of night..shoulda done that here.. but no car and no other place... the warnings about aussie hostel were not heeded by us.. we were spoiled.. a bad stay there.. walked around 8 or more hours to stay out of that place.. went to a great museum and an aboriginal gallery with aust. art.. visited cathedral.. listened to evensong.. very wary.. held off as long as possible.. creepy place, slept with clothes as covers.. then the loud music started.. up at 5 out at 6 .. market open ..coffee... gettin out of town sundown brown.....
thurs.. july 17...
computer work today.. look for place in melbourne.. talked to matt and dave tomorrow... went tomuseum and gllery.. museum with old things like natural history plce.. old costumes ...jewelry, stuffed birds, animals albatross, cars.. bicycles.. gallery had mostly paintings.. lots of kids ... new zealand painting mostly.. bed early up by 3/30... ugh
wed.. july 16.. christchurch
drive into christchurch.. got shuttle ride from juicy.. rid of car.. good...and at the shuttle a girl from new hartford.. lived on steele road... student in tasmania.. lots of those...walked around city,.. ended up watching last few innings of all star game.. on the sidewalk outside of a sports bar.. with a big who like baseball.. knew alot.. not players.. big square .. guy playing flute.. selling clothes and food.. nice town... very scottish
we're off to see the penguins
july 15.heading to oamaru and the yelloweyed penguins.... and parially yellow heads.. on way stopped at mariaki.. to see big stone balls.. with yellowish streaks.. running thru them.. about 4 ft. wide and 4 ft high.. it is said they are spiritual for maoris.. said they did not fall from sky or sound on sea floor.. instead they were underground and erosion exposed them.. there was one half sticking out of of the sandy hill next to beach.. out of the cliff and rolled down to the beach...we had heard that oamaru was worth a top, so we did... stopped at info center there and saw a movie about the towns early days, gold rush time.. city had port.. not trees so buildings made with abundant limestone.. beautiful big hotels, museums, banks with greek styling.. wide street so goods brought in from shipping got delivered down middle of street and turn around.. city got rich then railroads came in and took away alot of shipping business...
found empire backpackers.. right next tomuseum.. old hotel ...looked like cowboy hotel in 1880's.. went straight to museum.. small nice painting by artists who went to a nearby boys school and made it in art world.. exhibition by a guy living there of the bldgs. in town during 70's 80's... then walked around.. vibrant town.. saw old lady who walked faster than her grandson... all the elders seemed happy.. smiling, laughing,,, aliens... lots of cafes, tea room, pub, movie theater.. operatic group... theater, badminton club, rowing club, vintage clothing.. good stuff .. costume making store, beads, chinese garden, japanese.. old section of town.. grain bldg.. radio station playing teresa brewer.. side by side... found myself singing with her.. ha.. a fellow dressed in kilt.. theater clothing i think.
headed up hill out of town but still in oamaru to see yellow eyed penguins. it was cold. windy,, met couple who knew alot about it.. saw 2 penguins come up the path right next to us.. fb had camer.. couldnt get it out of zipped super duper camping pocket.. ha... it was like high noon.. couldnt get the gun out and make the draw.... penguins win.. however we did get a shot as the little guys headed into bush for the evening... they swim 25 miles out to sea.. head back and get home about 4pm til dark. straggling in.. some in pairs.. if one it looks for his or her mate and waits...
back to room.. sark haird guy there too.. saw him at rocks and penguins.. introduced himself as michael.. hitching around nz... going to university soon... he was cooking authentic meal.. viggies in tomatoes or tomato sauce..garlic.. and his dropped eggs into it.. covered.. til you almost all cooked.. like a fried egg... then took pieces of italian bread and dipped it.. we had a bite.. poor fb... went for it like moth to flame and burnt his mouth.. he's one hot gramps..
found empire backpackers.. right next tomuseum.. old hotel ...looked like cowboy hotel in 1880's.. went straight to museum.. small nice painting by artists who went to a nearby boys school and made it in art world.. exhibition by a guy living there of the bldgs. in town during 70's 80's... then walked around.. vibrant town.. saw old lady who walked faster than her grandson... all the elders seemed happy.. smiling, laughing,,, aliens... lots of cafes, tea room, pub, movie theater.. operatic group... theater, badminton club, rowing club, vintage clothing.. good stuff .. costume making store, beads, chinese garden, japanese.. old section of town.. grain bldg.. radio station playing teresa brewer.. side by side... found myself singing with her.. ha.. a fellow dressed in kilt.. theater clothing i think.
headed up hill out of town but still in oamaru to see yellow eyed penguins. it was cold. windy,, met couple who knew alot about it.. saw 2 penguins come up the path right next to us.. fb had camer.. couldnt get it out of zipped super duper camping pocket.. ha... it was like high noon.. couldnt get the gun out and make the draw.... penguins win.. however we did get a shot as the little guys headed into bush for the evening... they swim 25 miles out to sea.. head back and get home about 4pm til dark. straggling in.. some in pairs.. if one it looks for his or her mate and waits...
back to room.. sark haird guy there too.. saw him at rocks and penguins.. introduced himself as michael.. hitching around nz... going to university soon... he was cooking authentic meal.. viggies in tomatoes or tomato sauce..garlic.. and his dropped eggs into it.. covered.. til you almost all cooked.. like a fried egg... then took pieces of italian bread and dipped it.. we had a bite.. poor fb... went for it like moth to flame and burnt his mouth.. he's one hot gramps..
tims nz birthday
just saw that dave has blog too...everyone here up earlier than other places.. surprised//.off and runing.. nice room .quiet.. leftover pasta for breakfast and coffee... checking bckpacker places in aussie.. and bus routes, train , trying to drive less...
rain rain waslked to city .. they have overhangs.. stopped at bakery.. best damn flat white coffee yet... ciobbati bread for tonite with veggies.. flat white.. kinda like a latte... we will celebrate tims bday tonite and have no pasta.. ha.. good bread is hard to find.. did find one raisin bread that is good with peanut butter and jelly... rah you need to make bread and send it to nz... went to the museum.. frances hodgkins a new zealander.. ended up in paris.. water colors.. ots of bots and mothers and children.. we liked her alot... went to college bookstore .. nice one.. like an old boston one... travel books cost 60bucks.. another artist colin mc cann.. liked him too... water and oil of the area.. kinda architectural...pale...went into an old gothic church and second hand store... it had a bad stink of unwashed clothes.. left... fb going downstairs to ask for free cadbury candy.. the factory is here.. and there is a big festival..... great railroad station... trains not used as much... like in the states... met a girl that just came from australia.. said expensive... to try relocation of vans.. we will..... drive them from one spot to another for cheap..sent outn alot of note to australia for woofing .. cant get into sydney now... pope.. so it will be melbourne..
rain rain waslked to city .. they have overhangs.. stopped at bakery.. best damn flat white coffee yet... ciobbati bread for tonite with veggies.. flat white.. kinda like a latte... we will celebrate tims bday tonite and have no pasta.. ha.. good bread is hard to find.. did find one raisin bread that is good with peanut butter and jelly... rah you need to make bread and send it to nz... went to the museum.. frances hodgkins a new zealander.. ended up in paris.. water colors.. ots of bots and mothers and children.. we liked her alot... went to college bookstore .. nice one.. like an old boston one... travel books cost 60bucks.. another artist colin mc cann.. liked him too... water and oil of the area.. kinda architectural...pale...went into an old gothic church and second hand store... it had a bad stink of unwashed clothes.. left... fb going downstairs to ask for free cadbury candy.. the factory is here.. and there is a big festival..... great railroad station... trains not used as much... like in the states... met a girl that just came from australia.. said expensive... to try relocation of vans.. we will..... drive them from one spot to another for cheap..sent outn alot of note to australia for woofing .. cant get into sydney now... pope.. so it will be melbourne..
done ee din... or dunedin and waikawa
7/13 another city, another chance to get lost.. not too bad, just got the finger from one girl... she got it back.. ha.. hope she doesnt find us... hey we're foreigners in this land .. did she care.. no... ha... found our scottish yha.. used to be a mansion owned by a rich man.. clean, nice friendly.. mey nice young girl from england.. she asked us to go to an ice hockey game... alas we didnt.. tomorrow we will check out this city of 115,000... a botanical garden, museum, gallery, old railroad station. and maybe a movie... lots of college kids, lots to do. pub scene.. the big rugby game between wellinton and south africa here yesterday.. so. africa won...
oh... stopped in a museum in waikawa.. on way here.. and a little church, st. mary's... one lady in museum.. it was full of history about this area.. everything but the kitchen sink in here.. pictures, household stuff, machinery.. old anything, even the lady... ha.. typewriters too... a little jail.. big enough for one... lady lived here all her life.. quite remote... also the local information center and open on sundays....best historical center i have ever seen... hand drawn maps and old photos and a diorama of stuff animals ... scottish influence in list of world war 2 dead, camerons and mackenzies... lady staffing theres great grandmother came from scotland.. named after captain catlin.. sea captain and original settler... originally a large fishing area... and a trailer that serves blue cod during the season... a very charming area.. felt like we were somewhere near roan inish... the movie... but no thatched roofs.. or bare butt babies..
went to curio bay.. very near here... looking for yellow eyed penguin.. rare.. and sign said petrified wood.. we saw the wood lying in the water.. not the penguins.. the road was dirt.. it went past a house that was having a church service and a tiny trailor.. overlooked green hills and dramatic cliffs and ocean.. not many people around.. could be wales or parts of remote ireland, england.. pretty barren and beautiful... litstened to ry cooder song from new album and early song from tina turner.. and some fats waller.. most of the time.. no stations..
discussion on radio about nz telly.. wanted public tv station didnt want to be bland like american tv.. maori telly doing well..
this hostel is very clean.. you bring yours to them when you leave.. they clean kitchen everyday.. scour.. wash floors, baths, i think they are checked regularly... nz hostels the best...
there are some albatrosses around but tours are expensive.. maybe one will swoop down on us tomorrow on our walk.. free..... kid working here is a cricket fan.. we talked sports.. says the ball goes about 90 miless and hour.. not as fast as JABA... YEAH MAN...
oh... stopped in a museum in waikawa.. on way here.. and a little church, st. mary's... one lady in museum.. it was full of history about this area.. everything but the kitchen sink in here.. pictures, household stuff, machinery.. old anything, even the lady... ha.. typewriters too... a little jail.. big enough for one... lady lived here all her life.. quite remote... also the local information center and open on sundays....best historical center i have ever seen... hand drawn maps and old photos and a diorama of stuff animals ... scottish influence in list of world war 2 dead, camerons and mackenzies... lady staffing theres great grandmother came from scotland.. named after captain catlin.. sea captain and original settler... originally a large fishing area... and a trailer that serves blue cod during the season... a very charming area.. felt like we were somewhere near roan inish... the movie... but no thatched roofs.. or bare butt babies..
went to curio bay.. very near here... looking for yellow eyed penguin.. rare.. and sign said petrified wood.. we saw the wood lying in the water.. not the penguins.. the road was dirt.. it went past a house that was having a church service and a tiny trailor.. overlooked green hills and dramatic cliffs and ocean.. not many people around.. could be wales or parts of remote ireland, england.. pretty barren and beautiful... litstened to ry cooder song from new album and early song from tina turner.. and some fats waller.. most of the time.. no stations..
discussion on radio about nz telly.. wanted public tv station didnt want to be bland like american tv.. maori telly doing well..
this hostel is very clean.. you bring yours to them when you leave.. they clean kitchen everyday.. scour.. wash floors, baths, i think they are checked regularly... nz hostels the best...
there are some albatrosses around but tours are expensive.. maybe one will swoop down on us tomorrow on our walk.. free..... kid working here is a cricket fan.. we talked sports.. says the ball goes about 90 miless and hour.. not as fast as JABA... YEAH MAN...
here we go again.. july 12... burt monroe
made a booboo... leaving teanau for scenic drive to the southland.. rolling green hills.. landscape goes from ireland, scotland to british walks.. more sheep.. they dot the green fields.. saw some extra big sheep. stopped in a town with a thrift shop.. joan introduced herself and her friend milly who helped her.. fb found 2 books.. running low.. one about whiskey galore... a monster in a lake that gets killed by a flying saucer.. whiskey galore was the first movie that mildred durham showed in her movie course at ncccc.. great one.... the town with this thrift shop.. tuatapere.. was unique.. older buildings.. run down but character .. it was the sausage center of n.z... but there were no stores open for sausage...
people start late in morning.. no earlier than 9 and that is early for them... it doesnt get light til then in the winter..
starting to feel a scottish influence .. invercargill the town we stopped in had some nice old scottish looking buildings.. the hostel we ended up in did too.. it was great looking but abit cool feeling.. uninviting.. people real quiet except for one girl making a puzzle... fb had to ask one kid not to do his was at 11 pm... kid ot happy.. but no laundry after 9 says sign... our room nearby.. kid stopped.. mean ole mister fairbs.. eh
we went to museum.. near nice city park.. saw movie of fastest indian..burt monroes, his car and motorcycle there.. tim... he lived in invercargill... next stop antartica.. and the documentary very close to the movie... said he was abit of a ladies man.. a workaholic and perfectionist.. wanted to race this car and wouldnt give up for anything.. very driven... invercargill kind of a big city.. seemed like more than 50,000.. it had lots of stores and seemed busy.. houses cute.. scottish.. small... museum .. kids.... had lots of fossils.. some paintings.. free.. only donation expected.. and HENRY THE LIZARD.. over 100 years old.. he just became a father again.. we saw the little chitlins.. he just had surgery for a tumor and ready to rock and roll... big fella... henry went for a long time without...having his second batch of kids.. but they changed his climate.. tried other methods and henry had his little lizards... congrats henry...
this drive to the southland is very peaceful.. called couple for wooffing but they only needed one person.. we couldnt choose....
people start late in morning.. no earlier than 9 and that is early for them... it doesnt get light til then in the winter..
starting to feel a scottish influence .. invercargill the town we stopped in had some nice old scottish looking buildings.. the hostel we ended up in did too.. it was great looking but abit cool feeling.. uninviting.. people real quiet except for one girl making a puzzle... fb had to ask one kid not to do his was at 11 pm... kid ot happy.. but no laundry after 9 says sign... our room nearby.. kid stopped.. mean ole mister fairbs.. eh
we went to museum.. near nice city park.. saw movie of fastest indian..burt monroes, his car and motorcycle there.. tim... he lived in invercargill... next stop antartica.. and the documentary very close to the movie... said he was abit of a ladies man.. a workaholic and perfectionist.. wanted to race this car and wouldnt give up for anything.. very driven... invercargill kind of a big city.. seemed like more than 50,000.. it had lots of stores and seemed busy.. houses cute.. scottish.. small... museum .. kids.... had lots of fossils.. some paintings.. free.. only donation expected.. and HENRY THE LIZARD.. over 100 years old.. he just became a father again.. we saw the little chitlins.. he just had surgery for a tumor and ready to rock and roll... big fella... henry went for a long time without...having his second batch of kids.. but they changed his climate.. tried other methods and henry had his little lizards... congrats henry...
this drive to the southland is very peaceful.. called couple for wooffing but they only needed one person.. we couldnt choose....
fri... july 11.. kepler track
went on kepler walk.. river, suspension bridge, little damp.. rain.. trees with moss hanging.. like in maine only more... bright green mossy areas.. beautiful when sun hit.. whitish bark trees, not birch.. looked like they belonged in some russian woods.. a wooden walkway out to a boggy area..back to town.. went to library .. free internet.. bunch of 11 /12 yr olds playing video games. .. quiet enough, silly giggling.. one had a mohawk .. dark hair .. red for mohawk part... had lunch.. fb his sausage roll and me a cheesy thingy.. actually toast rolled around a piece of cheese, unique to the southland..
talked to girls at desk abit.. manager just got back from sweden .. had a campervan and drove the czech republic..loved it.. said she loved the history of europe.. nz she said is pretty young, nature here but bldgs not old, cities not as gorgeous, architecturally... the other girl went to hamilton college via calif.. had this deep laugh .. the kind that when you hear it you know that she is trly laughing at your jokes.. i like that.. ha... she will be travelling around nz after her stint here.. back to cal.. back to nz.. maybe dunedin.. busy, young, college town.. we bid them far thee well.. lioke the signs when you leave a town.. teanau say farewell.. it was raining
talked to girls at desk abit.. manager just got back from sweden .. had a campervan and drove the czech republic..loved it.. said she loved the history of europe.. nz she said is pretty young, nature here but bldgs not old, cities not as gorgeous, architecturally... the other girl went to hamilton college via calif.. had this deep laugh .. the kind that when you hear it you know that she is trly laughing at your jokes.. i like that.. ha... she will be travelling around nz after her stint here.. back to cal.. back to nz.. maybe dunedin.. busy, young, college town.. we bid them far thee well.. lioke the signs when you leave a town.. teanau say farewell.. it was raining
thurs.. july 10.. sound of miford
got up early.. found out that the weather was iffy for next day or so... so we headed out to milford to catch 11;30 ferry... road .. black ice.. had to move slowly.. mountains all around.. snow capped, snow on ground, winding roads, flat road, forested.. we made it.. cold on deck of boat and windy.. but we perservered.. ha.. mountains shooting out of water, waterfalls, even roger clemens there, with another woman.. his lady worried about her pocketbook flying into the water.. rog said if it does.. "i will go in fter it",.. she darted to ladies room... i said to rog.. we'll hold you to that one... rog said he was kidding.. he laughed... sure rog...
warmer on ride back.. not problem with road.. some american girls stuck with flat tire and donut went flat too.. we stopped.. no one else did they said.. took their names, said we would contact doc or dept of conservation or as fb kept saying.. dept of conversation.. hahahha.... we didnt pass any doc trucks for help but when we stopped at the mirror lakes... images of snow capped mts in water.. gorgeous..we saw a nationwide truck, the girls rental company... told us they got help.. yay
back to teanau for more pasta and an abnoxious bunch of american kids , more than kids.. just got their mba's nd they were loud drinking , lots o wine and bragging about everything they did...hey rah.. one of them lived in jersey city.. hahahahah
warmer on ride back.. not problem with road.. some american girls stuck with flat tire and donut went flat too.. we stopped.. no one else did they said.. took their names, said we would contact doc or dept of conservation or as fb kept saying.. dept of conversation.. hahahha.... we didnt pass any doc trucks for help but when we stopped at the mirror lakes... images of snow capped mts in water.. gorgeous..we saw a nationwide truck, the girls rental company... told us they got help.. yay
back to teanau for more pasta and an abnoxious bunch of american kids , more than kids.. just got their mba's nd they were loud drinking , lots o wine and bragging about everything they did...hey rah.. one of them lived in jersey city.. hahahahah
heading to somewhere july 8
leaving franz joseph and hoping to find hostel in wanaka.. no way... its school holiday and a ski area and all the college kids have taken the rooms... so we keep driving.. stop in queenstown.. big spread out, not a favorite... seemed like a good part town for the skiers .. decided to keep driving to teanau, our intended choice , but thought it too far for one day.. hit some heavy fog as we got closer.. i mean thick.. couldnt see in front of us and we were the lead car.. ha...but found the little town where you can only drive 20 miles and hour through center... found hostel through help from people walking into a grocery store,,, checked in.. thats all folks...
onto franz joseph
july 8.... seems everyone was heading to franz joseph or the fox glacier... scenic ride... thought we would bump into german girl but didnt.. we stayed at a place called glow worm hostel... walked up to the glacier.. awesome... fb explained alot of glacier info to me... then took a side walk... to a lake , down a dirt path, loads of trees.. lots of kids working here.. its easy to get work visas and there is alot to do, alot to see.. and alot of kids their ages..
back to the ice... it is centuris old.. it was alot further into the basin spot where now there are rocks all over, replacing the snow..
in our room they had beautiful black and white photos of people walking on glaciers.. the women were in dresses, like they were going to church , men also.in the pictures it showed more of the crevasses.. like a painting with dark shadows, beautiful...
stopped a a cute gold mining town caled ross... looked like someone could tie their horse up to a cafe..had coffee.. too expensive.. gotta give it up baby.. lady warned us that the roads were a little black icy, so to be careful... thanks cafe lady.... we like your town...
back to the ice... it is centuris old.. it was alot further into the basin spot where now there are rocks all over, replacing the snow..
in our room they had beautiful black and white photos of people walking on glaciers.. the women were in dresses, like they were going to church , men also.in the pictures it showed more of the crevasses.. like a painting with dark shadows, beautiful...
stopped a a cute gold mining town caled ross... looked like someone could tie their horse up to a cafe..had coffee.. too expensive.. gotta give it up baby.. lady warned us that the roads were a little black icy, so to be careful... thanks cafe lady.... we like your town...
litttle retreat .. again.. not finished ..
ok .. the name of the retreat us te ne kau or tenekau....it was a cabinlike place with a fireplace, woods all around and a walk to the beach.. and on the way there were other smaller cabins ... very idyllic... of course, that changed at night when a bunch of loud teenagers in the room next to us decided to hang out in hall next to our door and jump on beds after... fb stuck his head out the door... thats all it takes... what clout.. eh....a girl working there made fresh muffins every morning and sold eggs that we could cook... good deal..
we went on a river walk .. short but nice.. thru some woods with stuff hanging off trees, little running brook... it lead to another walk along a gorge... ran into the german girl again on walk ,, she was heading to franz joseph... taking a mom and daughter that she had met at the cabin place...
saw the famous,, i think,, pancake rocks.. literally look like a stack of pancakes.. and the cafe cross the street sold syrup.. ha.. just joshin...
we saw a weka bird in punakaki,,, we thought it was a kiwi.. but kiwis are nocturnal and this was early morning.. i had put a bag down with cheese and bread, we were packing car... he started feasting on it... your breakfast weka not ours anymore...
we went on a river walk .. short but nice.. thru some woods with stuff hanging off trees, little running brook... it lead to another walk along a gorge... ran into the german girl again on walk ,, she was heading to franz joseph... taking a mom and daughter that she had met at the cabin place...
saw the famous,, i think,, pancake rocks.. literally look like a stack of pancakes.. and the cafe cross the street sold syrup.. ha.. just joshin...
we saw a weka bird in punakaki,,, we thought it was a kiwi.. but kiwis are nocturnal and this was early morning.. i had put a bag down with cheese and bread, we were packing car... he started feasting on it... your breakfast weka not ours anymore...
little retreat
hi all... sorry away for so long.. back to nz where we left off.. the less interesting days will be shorter entries...
found a little retreat in woods in a town called punakki... met a german girl who quit her job and decided to travel.. lived in ny for a couple months.. didnt like it.. too big for her.. she had a good job.. her parents told her she needed a psychiatrist for quitting a good job.. she is off to australia to the northwest to find work...
found a little retreat in woods in a town called punakki... met a german girl who quit her job and decided to travel.. lived in ny for a couple months.. didnt like it.. too big for her.. she had a good job.. her parents told her she needed a psychiatrist for quitting a good job.. she is off to australia to the northwest to find work...
Monday, August 4, 2008
toots here
i am not a hero... i just went past panic to the calm eye of the storm stage... yes, my friends, the night was sultry, the streets were crowded, festive,, we were not... we were on a mission.. to find a room,.. park benches.. none to be had.. train station not like grand central.. no place to hide... as fb said we did find the 2nd inn... or as i called it.. the second wind.... we needed it... it was right on the corner of... i give up street... beckoning us... the rest you know... one more thing.. fb at the airport... he ran up that escalator so fast that he looked like one of the warriors in crouching tiger... never hitting a moving stair.. he walked on air.... like mj.... he could have been one of my heroes on the bulls team...and folks he did make a dunk....we got on that plane...ps.. his hair..... it was plastered down from sweat like mo in the 3 stooges... and it was air conditioned in that airport... fb was not....
Toots And Fairbs Go To Japan August 1st
We're jumping way ahead here but it's been awhile and we thought you'd like to hear about something more current. We'll fill in the spaces later. If the punctuation is a little strange in parts it's because the keyboard reverts to Japanese on it's own accord seemingly whenever it wants.
Our last night in Australia was spent in Cairns. Like a lot of Australian cities it's a jumping off point for tours and travel in the region. You wouldn't want to stay in Cairns very long and nobody does. It does have it's own ticky tacky beachfront charm though. The Esplanade, French for Strip, is lined with with restaurants, food courts, hostels advertising safaris and trips to the outback, Barrier Reef, rain forest, waterfalls, helicopter rides, even Uluru (Ayers Rock) which is a good 20 hour drive. They'll also get you the best deals on car and campervan rentals and set you up with van relocations for free. Don't expect miracles and don't expect to pay the lowest price advertised and you can stay busy for weeks.
Our hostel was a converted motel from the 50s, the Bellview. A lot of the hostels in Australia were originally motels and most are old mom and pops that have seen better days and offer little compared to hostels in New Zealand. The Bellview though was an exception. It's reception area was open right on the strip like a carnival barker's booth and you entered through an open air hallway into a courtyard with two stories of rooms surrounding a pool. There's a TV lounge, kitchen and common areas where people were playing cards, sitting around drinking wine and watching television. It all seemed like something from the past, like the hallway we walked down was a time portal and we were all enjoying a night out from decades ago.
Our room was upstairs and unlike many of the places we stayed came with a bathroom, coffee maker, fridge and TV. It was also the cleanest room we'd had for the last two weeks. An English mystery was just starting on the Australian Broadcasting public station so we made a quick trip to a nearby grocery store got our yogurt and headed back to the room.
The next morning - August 1st, we boarded the shuttle to return to the airport we arrived at the night before. Thankfully, we took an early shuttle. We thought our biggest problem would be getting our backpacks past the scales and coming in below the carry on limit. That means we wear extra clothes and pack all our pockets with the heavy stuff like books. We made that with no problem and thought we were home free, with time for something to eat, check email and relax before boarding.
While we were waiting for our tickets to be printed the woman behind the counter asked for proof of an outbound flight from Japan. We looked at each other, looked back at her and waited for it all to be a joke on her part. It wasn't - she was dead serious. I'd checked with the Japanese Consulate before leaving and was assured that there would be no problem, that with visas for both China and Russia anyone at Japanese immigration would know we weren't planning on hiding in the Japanese Alps and overstaying our sixty day limit. Lonely Planet said not to worry, nobody checks and nobody gets sent back to where they came from but the airline, JetStar, plays by the regulations and wouldn't let us board without proof that we would leave Japan and that they wouldn't be responsible for bringing us back to Australia.
We ran for the Internet cafe to see what we could arrange - maybe a cheap flight we could just kiss goodbye to get in but everything from Japan - Singapore, Korea, Malaysia, Thailand were about $900 - 1000. The only cheap flights were back to Australia and they were booked and too expensive to blow away.
We had to wait for a computer - they were filled with people with the same problem as us. Everyone thinking of where they wanted to go, how they could get there cheaply and get some kind of confirmation before the boarding call. We looked up the ferry from Osaka to Shanghai which was what we had planned on taking but hadn't booked because we didn't know how long we wanted to stay in Japan. Well, we knew now and tried booking passage for August 22nd. After entering all the information we got a message back that we would receive a confirmation within 24 hours and you know what that means - 23 hours maybe. We stopped there and ran downstairs to call and see if we could reserve over the phone and have them send an email right away. Our phone card, with plenty of time left mysteriously stopped working. Out came the Visa card for a call I don't want to know about and talking to a person, a low talker, was just as successful as booking on the Internet. We ran up the stairs again, our seond of what would be a zillion trips up and down to try something else. With nothing left to do we went back to JetStar and asked if we could get the flight moved to the next day. They said sure, no problem, no charge, it's done - they probably could do it in their sleep. I'd bet it's the first thing they learn in airline ticket school.
Up the stairs to the Internet one more time - something we could do in our sleep now - we decided to book the ferry so we'd have a confirmation by the next day when we'd try it all over again. They sent back a note right away saying that we were tentatively scheduled to depart on the 22nd for Shanghai. Was this enough? Could we beat the system that had left us exhausted, sweaty and stinking like we'd just got back from three day walk in the bush? All we had to do was print it off and go back downstairs. After reading this far you know what's next - there are no printers. By some strange twist of fate there was a girl next to us with an email address that would let us forward our unconfirmed ferry schedule to JetStar. Off it went and back down we went to the counter to see if it would work. The ticket woman was able to read it on her monitor and said yeah, this should work, all I have to do is call our main office, have them print it and then fax it to us. Ten minutes later she has it and says we're all set, we leave the same time tomorrow. At this point we can't go back to Cairns and wait another day. Can she please just make it all go away and put us back on our original flight? This doesn't look so easy but after a few minutes at the keyboard she prints our tickets and we go up to the depature lounge for what we hope will be our last trip on the stairs.
We make a beeline for the metal detectors, anything that will get us closer to the plane. We strip off our coats, backpacks and shoes and throw them on the conveyer belt wanting to pick them up and blend in with everyone else. I picked up my coats, my boots and wondered what happened to my backpack - it was on the ground by the x-ray machine. No surprise there, but it was only a pair of scissors that they saw and then decided to let go through. We made it. As I put my boots on a shadow came over my feet and a very tall man asked me to "step this way." I'd been selected for a random explosives check. I was frisked, wanded and had the backpacked re x-rayed and chemically checked for explosives and given the OK. I looked like crap, smelled worse, had changed reservations twice in an hour and had only carry on luggage; it all came with the territory.
We did make it on the plane and settled in for our 7 1/2 hour flight - it's a lot longer than you'd think. JetStar is the discount arm of Qantas and offers everything for a price - food, movies, drinks and anything that would help make the flight go by quicker. We settled on pretzels and juice - not a real time killer.
There was a highlight to the flight though. After a few hours the sun was setting and the clouds turned a dark grey black. They had piled up into strange shapes like dead trees with no branches or stalagmites resting in black pools of ice. It was eerie, like something from a science fiction movie or a William Blake engraving of the Inferno.
We landed and headed for immigration. Armed with our declaration forms and fax from the ferry company would we make it through? The answer was yes - no one asked us anything. We had our pictures taken, our index fingers printed, got a smile and a big welcome to Japan.
Off we headed to the information desk and ATM. Did I mention that our hotel reservation for the night had been cancelled that morning? That was something we found in our email as we bounced up and down the stairs in the Cairns airport like yoyos on big rubber bands.
The information desk had rooms available at the airport for $192 and some in Osaka for $175. Toots rose to the occasion, took over and said how do we get into Osaka? It's 10 pm, dark, no one speaks English and we found ourselves on the shuttle bus to the train station in town. This is what travel's all about right?
The bus stopped, we got off and looked around. A lot of good that did. We walked up one street and saw nothing and turned around. We walked through food stalls with thousands of people running by looking for bars, taxis and trying to get home. We saw our first hotel up ahead and walked into a lobby with more marble than a Donald Trump cathouse. They could have had fifty rooms available and I doubt they'd have given one to us in our state. They said they were full but gave us a map to other hotels - the Ritz Carlton and the Hilton among them. All the streets looked the same, it was 11:30 and getting desperate. All of a sudden Toots has a cape, super hero boots and enough energy to run with the bulls at Pamploma. One more street, another block and what looks suspiciously like a hotel lobby and even better a name over the door - "The Second Inn." I'd about given up, but Toots had that look in her eyes and there was no stopping her. No marble in the lobby, a block away from the Ritz and we have a room for about $75. We had no idea what it would be like, but this being Japan it was spotless, had a flat screen TV, Japanese Robes, two beds, slippers and toothbrushes. The Justice League just gained a new member.
Our last night in Australia was spent in Cairns. Like a lot of Australian cities it's a jumping off point for tours and travel in the region. You wouldn't want to stay in Cairns very long and nobody does. It does have it's own ticky tacky beachfront charm though. The Esplanade, French for Strip, is lined with with restaurants, food courts, hostels advertising safaris and trips to the outback, Barrier Reef, rain forest, waterfalls, helicopter rides, even Uluru (Ayers Rock) which is a good 20 hour drive. They'll also get you the best deals on car and campervan rentals and set you up with van relocations for free. Don't expect miracles and don't expect to pay the lowest price advertised and you can stay busy for weeks.
Our hostel was a converted motel from the 50s, the Bellview. A lot of the hostels in Australia were originally motels and most are old mom and pops that have seen better days and offer little compared to hostels in New Zealand. The Bellview though was an exception. It's reception area was open right on the strip like a carnival barker's booth and you entered through an open air hallway into a courtyard with two stories of rooms surrounding a pool. There's a TV lounge, kitchen and common areas where people were playing cards, sitting around drinking wine and watching television. It all seemed like something from the past, like the hallway we walked down was a time portal and we were all enjoying a night out from decades ago.
Our room was upstairs and unlike many of the places we stayed came with a bathroom, coffee maker, fridge and TV. It was also the cleanest room we'd had for the last two weeks. An English mystery was just starting on the Australian Broadcasting public station so we made a quick trip to a nearby grocery store got our yogurt and headed back to the room.
The next morning - August 1st, we boarded the shuttle to return to the airport we arrived at the night before. Thankfully, we took an early shuttle. We thought our biggest problem would be getting our backpacks past the scales and coming in below the carry on limit. That means we wear extra clothes and pack all our pockets with the heavy stuff like books. We made that with no problem and thought we were home free, with time for something to eat, check email and relax before boarding.
While we were waiting for our tickets to be printed the woman behind the counter asked for proof of an outbound flight from Japan. We looked at each other, looked back at her and waited for it all to be a joke on her part. It wasn't - she was dead serious. I'd checked with the Japanese Consulate before leaving and was assured that there would be no problem, that with visas for both China and Russia anyone at Japanese immigration would know we weren't planning on hiding in the Japanese Alps and overstaying our sixty day limit. Lonely Planet said not to worry, nobody checks and nobody gets sent back to where they came from but the airline, JetStar, plays by the regulations and wouldn't let us board without proof that we would leave Japan and that they wouldn't be responsible for bringing us back to Australia.
We ran for the Internet cafe to see what we could arrange - maybe a cheap flight we could just kiss goodbye to get in but everything from Japan - Singapore, Korea, Malaysia, Thailand were about $900 - 1000. The only cheap flights were back to Australia and they were booked and too expensive to blow away.
We had to wait for a computer - they were filled with people with the same problem as us. Everyone thinking of where they wanted to go, how they could get there cheaply and get some kind of confirmation before the boarding call. We looked up the ferry from Osaka to Shanghai which was what we had planned on taking but hadn't booked because we didn't know how long we wanted to stay in Japan. Well, we knew now and tried booking passage for August 22nd. After entering all the information we got a message back that we would receive a confirmation within 24 hours and you know what that means - 23 hours maybe. We stopped there and ran downstairs to call and see if we could reserve over the phone and have them send an email right away. Our phone card, with plenty of time left mysteriously stopped working. Out came the Visa card for a call I don't want to know about and talking to a person, a low talker, was just as successful as booking on the Internet. We ran up the stairs again, our seond of what would be a zillion trips up and down to try something else. With nothing left to do we went back to JetStar and asked if we could get the flight moved to the next day. They said sure, no problem, no charge, it's done - they probably could do it in their sleep. I'd bet it's the first thing they learn in airline ticket school.
Up the stairs to the Internet one more time - something we could do in our sleep now - we decided to book the ferry so we'd have a confirmation by the next day when we'd try it all over again. They sent back a note right away saying that we were tentatively scheduled to depart on the 22nd for Shanghai. Was this enough? Could we beat the system that had left us exhausted, sweaty and stinking like we'd just got back from three day walk in the bush? All we had to do was print it off and go back downstairs. After reading this far you know what's next - there are no printers. By some strange twist of fate there was a girl next to us with an email address that would let us forward our unconfirmed ferry schedule to JetStar. Off it went and back down we went to the counter to see if it would work. The ticket woman was able to read it on her monitor and said yeah, this should work, all I have to do is call our main office, have them print it and then fax it to us. Ten minutes later she has it and says we're all set, we leave the same time tomorrow. At this point we can't go back to Cairns and wait another day. Can she please just make it all go away and put us back on our original flight? This doesn't look so easy but after a few minutes at the keyboard she prints our tickets and we go up to the depature lounge for what we hope will be our last trip on the stairs.
We make a beeline for the metal detectors, anything that will get us closer to the plane. We strip off our coats, backpacks and shoes and throw them on the conveyer belt wanting to pick them up and blend in with everyone else. I picked up my coats, my boots and wondered what happened to my backpack - it was on the ground by the x-ray machine. No surprise there, but it was only a pair of scissors that they saw and then decided to let go through. We made it. As I put my boots on a shadow came over my feet and a very tall man asked me to "step this way." I'd been selected for a random explosives check. I was frisked, wanded and had the backpacked re x-rayed and chemically checked for explosives and given the OK. I looked like crap, smelled worse, had changed reservations twice in an hour and had only carry on luggage; it all came with the territory.
We did make it on the plane and settled in for our 7 1/2 hour flight - it's a lot longer than you'd think. JetStar is the discount arm of Qantas and offers everything for a price - food, movies, drinks and anything that would help make the flight go by quicker. We settled on pretzels and juice - not a real time killer.
There was a highlight to the flight though. After a few hours the sun was setting and the clouds turned a dark grey black. They had piled up into strange shapes like dead trees with no branches or stalagmites resting in black pools of ice. It was eerie, like something from a science fiction movie or a William Blake engraving of the Inferno.
We landed and headed for immigration. Armed with our declaration forms and fax from the ferry company would we make it through? The answer was yes - no one asked us anything. We had our pictures taken, our index fingers printed, got a smile and a big welcome to Japan.
Off we headed to the information desk and ATM. Did I mention that our hotel reservation for the night had been cancelled that morning? That was something we found in our email as we bounced up and down the stairs in the Cairns airport like yoyos on big rubber bands.
The information desk had rooms available at the airport for $192 and some in Osaka for $175. Toots rose to the occasion, took over and said how do we get into Osaka? It's 10 pm, dark, no one speaks English and we found ourselves on the shuttle bus to the train station in town. This is what travel's all about right?
The bus stopped, we got off and looked around. A lot of good that did. We walked up one street and saw nothing and turned around. We walked through food stalls with thousands of people running by looking for bars, taxis and trying to get home. We saw our first hotel up ahead and walked into a lobby with more marble than a Donald Trump cathouse. They could have had fifty rooms available and I doubt they'd have given one to us in our state. They said they were full but gave us a map to other hotels - the Ritz Carlton and the Hilton among them. All the streets looked the same, it was 11:30 and getting desperate. All of a sudden Toots has a cape, super hero boots and enough energy to run with the bulls at Pamploma. One more street, another block and what looks suspiciously like a hotel lobby and even better a name over the door - "The Second Inn." I'd about given up, but Toots had that look in her eyes and there was no stopping her. No marble in the lobby, a block away from the Ritz and we have a room for about $75. We had no idea what it would be like, but this being Japan it was spotless, had a flat screen TV, Japanese Robes, two beds, slippers and toothbrushes. The Justice League just gained a new member.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Karamea July 6th
We got out early today to see what the rest of the town looked like and then headed over to our hostel to leave our backpacks and go hiking. Karamea is the end of the line on the west coast and has the feel of a frontier town. It's isolated from the rest of the country and likes it that way.
We stayed at the Rongo Backpackers and from the moment we entered we knew we had gone down the rabbit hole and through the looking glass. We were transported back in time to a place that might never have existed but if it did it would have been the ideal version of 60's counterculture. The place is run in large part by volunteers and has a real commune feeling. You're right in the center of Woodstock as it was meant to be, organic farming and art all over the walls and ceilings.
We met Brian the manager who checked us in and said we could leave our backpacks in the corner unattended while the rooms were cleaned and we were hiking. We decided to take them with us and leave them in the trunk but later got hooked into the no locks on doors, tune in, drop out atmosphere of the place real quick.
The hostel has an organic garden you're welcome to use and an oriental garden in the back with orchids, ginkgo trees, japanese lantern trees and magnolias. The stove and fireplace go all day both to keep the place warm and along with solar panels on the roof to supply the hot water.
We left to walk around the Opara Basin and some of the largest arches in the Southern Hemisphere but like everywhere else in New Zealand the climate changes around every corner and after a few miles on a gravel round we started gaining elevation and the ice stopped us from going any further.
That was not problem because one of the long hiking trails - the Heaphy Track - is just up the road and stays close to the coast where the weather is much more temperate. To walk the entire trail takes five days but we just started at the trailhead and walked for a few hours. We had a quick lunch by the ocean at a spot where someone had carved a tiki statue and headed over the to walk. It starts at the ocean, hemmed in by a large headland with crashing surf. A quick walk up a small river and over a suspension bridge and just a few minutes from the icy road we're back in the jungle, with the snow capped Southern Alps in the background.
A warm Gulf Stream like current makes it possible for a species of palm trees, the Nikau Palm, to grow here. We left the main trail for a walk through the palms and headed straight into another case of nature gone wild. It was like walking through a movie from the 30's or 40's where they would have thrown together every species of plant to show the jungle. If Marvel Comics had a jungle series this would be it - everything on steroids.
Back on the Heaphy Track we walked along with waterfalls on the inland side and ocean on the other. It opened onto a huge beach with huge waves that almost made it difficult to hear each other. We met a guy from North Carolina going to college for a semeter in Christ Church who had been on the trail for four days. Other than him, we met no one.
Getting back to the hostel we talked more with Brian. He first came to the hostel a little over three years ago after leaving a job in Aukland and felt "revitalized" after three days. He headed south for a while, worked with a carpenter and then when he had two week break came back. That was three years ago and whether he gets paid or just has free room and board I'm not sure. He runs the community radio station from a shack out back and they have movies every friday night in a garage with old couches and chairs. They suggested that we do a show. Didn't have any Rolling Stones music so we opted not to.
There was another worker, a girl from Southern California who is working her way around the world and may head to Australia next.
Paul. the owner came by and stayed to chat. He lives close by and keeps a farm for chickens and more vegetables. When he started the place it was a derelict shack, once a maternity ward for the two room hospital next door. Somehow people heard about it and just showed up to help. Ever since people come by to volunteer - carpenters and electricians are always welcomed.
We all sat around the fireplace chatting and trying to keep warm. It has a large common room with a great dining table for eating but everyone hovers around what little warmth there is. This isn't all that uncommon, there's very little central heating in New Zealand. We haven't seen any anywhere we've stayed - the national motto for the winter months should be "put on your coat and stay awhile."
Paul, who looks like Errol Flynn as a farmer in his 40's is waging a campaign against poisoning possums by dropping pellets. It's made in the US and 90 percent of it is used in New Zealand; we buy their mutton in return. He was dressed in an old wool sweater and wool hat and Brian was barefoot, how I don't know, with baggy drawstring pants over old long johns with a flap hat that just about covered his ponytail. Deb, a woman from South Africa who yes, was travelling around the world for a few years, had made supper for everone joined us. She follows festivals around Australia and New Zealand to meed other travelers and may stay in a place for a few months to work. She just came from up north where she rented a bus converted into a house for 50 dollars a week.
It was time to get warm for real though so we headed to our room, turned on the little electric radiator and got under the covers. A shower tonight, or the next day was out of the question. It wouldn't take long though to convince yourself that you were on the right side of the looking glass here, the place really works.
toots here...rainbow people and hopping along with the white rabbit.
brian wasn't really brian.. he had a pony tail but that was a hair piece.. the rest of his tennis outfit hung in the kitchen... a secret life as a tennis player.,. yes, it was daniel nestor hiding out... after his big doubles win at wimbledon he needed and randr and karamea was the place... no tennis for you buster... just tend to that fire and keep us warm...firestarter....next to the fire on one of the 2 tiny stools was where we had to sit, cause the fire never reached the couches and chairs straight from the 50's and 60's..
just like that lady who ran the grocery store with her son and daughter, all with same sweaters on.. the work outfit... and her friend.. the ladies hummed to "mockingbird hill " as it came on the radio... that's when our eyes rolled... not only humming but singing... they are aliens.. just like the hydroponic tomato plants that were covered like tobacco plants... there were big green things under it... aren't aliens green...???
brian did tell us that they once had a cow... part of his ultimate sustainability... but... someone shot his cow by accident.. there were two in the field.. slaughtering one for meat... got the wrong one...
the house was painted in rainbow stripes... alot of visitors helped in this project.. it did stand out on the street... of pretty normal looking homes...but the yard of cactus and other flowering plants and trees made it stand out from the rest....
no rap on brians radio program.. silly music and anything but rap... folk etc... weekly comedy show.. we heard one... john cleese and some kiwi comedians... also a place in town, around the corner next to grocery store where musicians played every saturday night.
paul, the owner who used to work in japan for 10 yrs in a very small room without windows.. no wonder he left... now he owns 80 acres and has the dream of oneday having a woodstocky music festival here.. only problem says brian is that the field was in a swamp... sooooo .... if you cant get in over the mountain pass you can be helicoptered in.. and you may never leave... you can stay at rongo's with the rongolians..... goin' back to the 60's man....
We stayed at the Rongo Backpackers and from the moment we entered we knew we had gone down the rabbit hole and through the looking glass. We were transported back in time to a place that might never have existed but if it did it would have been the ideal version of 60's counterculture. The place is run in large part by volunteers and has a real commune feeling. You're right in the center of Woodstock as it was meant to be, organic farming and art all over the walls and ceilings.
We met Brian the manager who checked us in and said we could leave our backpacks in the corner unattended while the rooms were cleaned and we were hiking. We decided to take them with us and leave them in the trunk but later got hooked into the no locks on doors, tune in, drop out atmosphere of the place real quick.
The hostel has an organic garden you're welcome to use and an oriental garden in the back with orchids, ginkgo trees, japanese lantern trees and magnolias. The stove and fireplace go all day both to keep the place warm and along with solar panels on the roof to supply the hot water.
We left to walk around the Opara Basin and some of the largest arches in the Southern Hemisphere but like everywhere else in New Zealand the climate changes around every corner and after a few miles on a gravel round we started gaining elevation and the ice stopped us from going any further.
That was not problem because one of the long hiking trails - the Heaphy Track - is just up the road and stays close to the coast where the weather is much more temperate. To walk the entire trail takes five days but we just started at the trailhead and walked for a few hours. We had a quick lunch by the ocean at a spot where someone had carved a tiki statue and headed over the to walk. It starts at the ocean, hemmed in by a large headland with crashing surf. A quick walk up a small river and over a suspension bridge and just a few minutes from the icy road we're back in the jungle, with the snow capped Southern Alps in the background.
A warm Gulf Stream like current makes it possible for a species of palm trees, the Nikau Palm, to grow here. We left the main trail for a walk through the palms and headed straight into another case of nature gone wild. It was like walking through a movie from the 30's or 40's where they would have thrown together every species of plant to show the jungle. If Marvel Comics had a jungle series this would be it - everything on steroids.
Back on the Heaphy Track we walked along with waterfalls on the inland side and ocean on the other. It opened onto a huge beach with huge waves that almost made it difficult to hear each other. We met a guy from North Carolina going to college for a semeter in Christ Church who had been on the trail for four days. Other than him, we met no one.
Getting back to the hostel we talked more with Brian. He first came to the hostel a little over three years ago after leaving a job in Aukland and felt "revitalized" after three days. He headed south for a while, worked with a carpenter and then when he had two week break came back. That was three years ago and whether he gets paid or just has free room and board I'm not sure. He runs the community radio station from a shack out back and they have movies every friday night in a garage with old couches and chairs. They suggested that we do a show. Didn't have any Rolling Stones music so we opted not to.
There was another worker, a girl from Southern California who is working her way around the world and may head to Australia next.
Paul. the owner came by and stayed to chat. He lives close by and keeps a farm for chickens and more vegetables. When he started the place it was a derelict shack, once a maternity ward for the two room hospital next door. Somehow people heard about it and just showed up to help. Ever since people come by to volunteer - carpenters and electricians are always welcomed.
We all sat around the fireplace chatting and trying to keep warm. It has a large common room with a great dining table for eating but everyone hovers around what little warmth there is. This isn't all that uncommon, there's very little central heating in New Zealand. We haven't seen any anywhere we've stayed - the national motto for the winter months should be "put on your coat and stay awhile."
Paul, who looks like Errol Flynn as a farmer in his 40's is waging a campaign against poisoning possums by dropping pellets. It's made in the US and 90 percent of it is used in New Zealand; we buy their mutton in return. He was dressed in an old wool sweater and wool hat and Brian was barefoot, how I don't know, with baggy drawstring pants over old long johns with a flap hat that just about covered his ponytail. Deb, a woman from South Africa who yes, was travelling around the world for a few years, had made supper for everone joined us. She follows festivals around Australia and New Zealand to meed other travelers and may stay in a place for a few months to work. She just came from up north where she rented a bus converted into a house for 50 dollars a week.
It was time to get warm for real though so we headed to our room, turned on the little electric radiator and got under the covers. A shower tonight, or the next day was out of the question. It wouldn't take long though to convince yourself that you were on the right side of the looking glass here, the place really works.
toots here...rainbow people and hopping along with the white rabbit.
brian wasn't really brian.. he had a pony tail but that was a hair piece.. the rest of his tennis outfit hung in the kitchen... a secret life as a tennis player.,. yes, it was daniel nestor hiding out... after his big doubles win at wimbledon he needed and randr and karamea was the place... no tennis for you buster... just tend to that fire and keep us warm...firestarter....next to the fire on one of the 2 tiny stools was where we had to sit, cause the fire never reached the couches and chairs straight from the 50's and 60's..
just like that lady who ran the grocery store with her son and daughter, all with same sweaters on.. the work outfit... and her friend.. the ladies hummed to "mockingbird hill " as it came on the radio... that's when our eyes rolled... not only humming but singing... they are aliens.. just like the hydroponic tomato plants that were covered like tobacco plants... there were big green things under it... aren't aliens green...???
brian did tell us that they once had a cow... part of his ultimate sustainability... but... someone shot his cow by accident.. there were two in the field.. slaughtering one for meat... got the wrong one...
the house was painted in rainbow stripes... alot of visitors helped in this project.. it did stand out on the street... of pretty normal looking homes...but the yard of cactus and other flowering plants and trees made it stand out from the rest....
no rap on brians radio program.. silly music and anything but rap... folk etc... weekly comedy show.. we heard one... john cleese and some kiwi comedians... also a place in town, around the corner next to grocery store where musicians played every saturday night.
paul, the owner who used to work in japan for 10 yrs in a very small room without windows.. no wonder he left... now he owns 80 acres and has the dream of oneday having a woodstocky music festival here.. only problem says brian is that the field was in a swamp... sooooo .... if you cant get in over the mountain pass you can be helicoptered in.. and you may never leave... you can stay at rongo's with the rongolians..... goin' back to the 60's man....
Friday, July 11, 2008
Off to the west coast July 5th
We got up early to fix eggs and head on to the west coast but the stove wasn;t working. The South African women knew what to do - of course - and microwaved hers. I guess it worked but it looked more like gruel than eggs so we passed on that. While she was microwaving she went on about the roads - no shoulders, can;t take pictures, "Harold, watch the road!", "Oh no, it might snow, pull out the chains!"
Harold loves South Africa - he's the type who would say he doesn't like driving in snow here, but in South Africa the snow isn't slippery. Went back to the bakery and got a baguette for the road, which turned out to be a good idea.
The scenery is still breathtaking and we're just about to turn onto the road over the pass to the coast when we notice that there's a truck and cones across it and a few cars and trucks in line. It's snowing and the pass is closed - it has been since midnight and they don't know when it will open. We settle in and start to wait. Of course it's sunny where we are, some of the first we've seen but it must be awful in the passes to be closed this long, or so we think.
We get a real collection of characters waiting with us. There's a truck driver who walks around with shorts that are too tight and too short with pearly white legs, black socks and black shoes - he's "black skiivy guy". The ubiquitous Germans are next to us - one of them is "butt crack guy" - striped underwear that slid way down over his black tights.
The gossip starts spreading about road conditions - the whole west coast is closed for two days, the pass will be closed for another day and night, if they let you go you need chains. All this from a simple statement from the road guy who is the only one who knows anything and all he says is "they're working on it."
We finally get the go ahead about 2:30 and it's off to the races. Everyone had been milling around, talking, kicking a soccer ball, playing catch and suddenly something changed. Someone pulled away from the crowd and started sauntering over to their car. A few started walking a little quicker and then broke into a jog. Everyone left standing ran back, started their cars and peeled out. We almost had a few accidents ran at the starting line.
We were near the front and kept jour place. A few people passed but we wanted to keep our place ahead of trucks and vans. It was supposed to snow again and we wanted to get over the passes.
Why it took so long to clear we couldn't figure. A few inches of snow for a few miles. They used road graders, not snowplows so they take forever to get to wherever they have to go and then they spread liquid de-icer and gravel - they call it grit - instead of sand. These were the New Zealand Alps though and it was beautiful.
When we hit the valleys we made time. They're like Montana or Wyoming - big fertile plains with cattle surrounded by steep mountains and rivers running down the middle. You keep waiting for Hoss and Little Joe to gallop past on their horses. We just kept going, we weren't going to get caught again. We knew we wouldn't make it as far as we wanted but we'd get close.
The low passes were find - green ferns and moss covering cliffs that come right to the road with small waterfalls splashing on the windshield. We got to the town we wanted to stay in but noticed a smell and then a sign - "Coal Town, visit the Coal Museum" Well it took about two seconds to decide to go on to Karamea and try to reach it before it got too dark.
There's a warm current here that changes the vegetation. Palm trees line the road along the coast and the mountains come down to them - just like Hawaii. But go past the coastal range and it's snow on the peaks, with Swiss valleys and fields. All of a sudden the beach road turns into what they call the bluffs. Back to the jungle but enough altitude to make it icy. Icy, dark, narrow, twisting roads. It beats breathing coal dust all night.
Finally got to Karamea but had no idea where to find the hostel. There was a small food store still open and a very nice Stepford woman let us use the phone to call the hostel - it was full. They recommended a motel they own but we called around to a few others to check prices. They were all the same so we headed down the road and picked the wrong one - it was the only one with lights on, what did we know. There were stinky splashy bed covers and a heater on the wall that warmed up the top 6 feet of the room - it had high peaked ceilings. All we needed was some sleep so we just got all the covers we could find and went to sleep.
extra stuff
how could fb forget that the guy at the smelly place had a connection with federer.... his friends mother cut rogers hair when he was a little boy.. fed that is.... and the hubby was a mate of feds dad... thats important..
did watch a great rugby game at that place.... never watched a whole game before.. really fast and fun ... wellington won.. they beat south africa.. poor harold..... but the "wellington all blacks"... team name.... were the victors..... .....
Harold loves South Africa - he's the type who would say he doesn't like driving in snow here, but in South Africa the snow isn't slippery. Went back to the bakery and got a baguette for the road, which turned out to be a good idea.
The scenery is still breathtaking and we're just about to turn onto the road over the pass to the coast when we notice that there's a truck and cones across it and a few cars and trucks in line. It's snowing and the pass is closed - it has been since midnight and they don't know when it will open. We settle in and start to wait. Of course it's sunny where we are, some of the first we've seen but it must be awful in the passes to be closed this long, or so we think.
We get a real collection of characters waiting with us. There's a truck driver who walks around with shorts that are too tight and too short with pearly white legs, black socks and black shoes - he's "black skiivy guy". The ubiquitous Germans are next to us - one of them is "butt crack guy" - striped underwear that slid way down over his black tights.
The gossip starts spreading about road conditions - the whole west coast is closed for two days, the pass will be closed for another day and night, if they let you go you need chains. All this from a simple statement from the road guy who is the only one who knows anything and all he says is "they're working on it."
We finally get the go ahead about 2:30 and it's off to the races. Everyone had been milling around, talking, kicking a soccer ball, playing catch and suddenly something changed. Someone pulled away from the crowd and started sauntering over to their car. A few started walking a little quicker and then broke into a jog. Everyone left standing ran back, started their cars and peeled out. We almost had a few accidents ran at the starting line.
We were near the front and kept jour place. A few people passed but we wanted to keep our place ahead of trucks and vans. It was supposed to snow again and we wanted to get over the passes.
Why it took so long to clear we couldn't figure. A few inches of snow for a few miles. They used road graders, not snowplows so they take forever to get to wherever they have to go and then they spread liquid de-icer and gravel - they call it grit - instead of sand. These were the New Zealand Alps though and it was beautiful.
When we hit the valleys we made time. They're like Montana or Wyoming - big fertile plains with cattle surrounded by steep mountains and rivers running down the middle. You keep waiting for Hoss and Little Joe to gallop past on their horses. We just kept going, we weren't going to get caught again. We knew we wouldn't make it as far as we wanted but we'd get close.
The low passes were find - green ferns and moss covering cliffs that come right to the road with small waterfalls splashing on the windshield. We got to the town we wanted to stay in but noticed a smell and then a sign - "Coal Town, visit the Coal Museum" Well it took about two seconds to decide to go on to Karamea and try to reach it before it got too dark.
There's a warm current here that changes the vegetation. Palm trees line the road along the coast and the mountains come down to them - just like Hawaii. But go past the coastal range and it's snow on the peaks, with Swiss valleys and fields. All of a sudden the beach road turns into what they call the bluffs. Back to the jungle but enough altitude to make it icy. Icy, dark, narrow, twisting roads. It beats breathing coal dust all night.
Finally got to Karamea but had no idea where to find the hostel. There was a small food store still open and a very nice Stepford woman let us use the phone to call the hostel - it was full. They recommended a motel they own but we called around to a few others to check prices. They were all the same so we headed down the road and picked the wrong one - it was the only one with lights on, what did we know. There were stinky splashy bed covers and a heater on the wall that warmed up the top 6 feet of the room - it had high peaked ceilings. All we needed was some sleep so we just got all the covers we could find and went to sleep.
extra stuff
how could fb forget that the guy at the smelly place had a connection with federer.... his friends mother cut rogers hair when he was a little boy.. fed that is.... and the hubby was a mate of feds dad... thats important..
did watch a great rugby game at that place.... never watched a whole game before.. really fast and fun ... wellington won.. they beat south africa.. poor harold..... but the "wellington all blacks"... team name.... were the victors..... .....
Thursday, July 10, 2008
We hit the South Island July 4th
We woke up early to miss the truckers' strike and headed out in the dark in an unfamiliar city. We figured just keep the harbor to the right and we'd be ok - it worked and we got to wait about two hours until we could board in a dark industrial park.
The boat was like a cruise ship - we learned later it used to cross the English Channel. We had a seat in the cafe right at the bow and watched the truckers tie up the city. Next to us was a couple who let us borrow their newspaper. They were testing each other on the sports quiz and we found out he's a Yankees' fan and follows the Minnesota Vikings. He loves ESPN - subscribes to it on cable. What are the odds of meeting someone in New Zealand who knows who Joe Girardi is and knows Dante Culpepper's stats?
They knew all about walks all over the South Island and saved us from going to the information center where I was sure to get lost and bore the workers silly.
We headed west along the coast on Queen Charlotte Drive again with cliffs on one side and small villages and the ocean on the other. Once we headed inland the valleys were all vineyards and orchards.
We got to our town - Motueka - and asked about hiking in Abel Tasman Park. It turns out we'd have to take a $52.00 boat ride - each - to hike back to town for 3-4 hours. It sounded beautiful but everywhere we looked was like some sort of fairy land so we decided against it.
Any dissapointment over that was made up by the fact that we got into town on the opening night of their festival of lights. This is a one street village that had pineapple sized lights strung across the street. We bumped into a couple of old gents who said it would take the politicians about 30 minutes to flip the switch so come back around 6:00. It wasn't only lights across the street - there were small blinking lights like palms trees and floral displays above the one story shops and every store had something in it - reindeer, little trees and sleds among others. It turns out that they are celebrating the days getting longer and have to have something to do in the winter. Christmas is in the summer and the days are long and any displays just don't quite make it that time of year.
We were serenaded by bagpipe players of the Motueka Pipe Band and a four woman vocal group like Meghan's called the Nancies. On our way back to the hostel we passed a bakery that had just put out a sign for half price pies and quiches - this is like some movie town.
This was the first hostel where we met a lot of other adults. A couple from South Africa, another from Budapest with a small son and quite a few Asian women on their holiday work visas. Everyone makes a mad dash for the kitchens in these hostels - a lot like Filene's Basement and their annual bridal gown sale. There was a German guy baking cookies from scratch and some fancy meal, one of the Asian women was boiling a whole chicken for soup and we had our little bowl of pasta.
extra spice,,, harold.. and maude?? no not really, but he was harold
we were sort of prepped for the milford sound on this trip... the ride went through smaller mountains but it still looked a little like fiordland.. and picton was our alaska town....
ferry ride served food constantly .. for sale... movies,, raiders and iron man... 12 bucks... guess what we skipped the movie... been there done that..
harold was the south african man,, his wife.. ?... but she interrupted him alot and seemed to know everything about everything... she insisted on going over the mountain road.. it might snow he said... no worries, she said.... we can get to christchurch faster.... well, harold had been scarred for life when caught in a snowstorm in north carolina, somewhere in the mountains... since then he has carried chains in his car when travelling out of south africa... this time he sprung for chains for $100 bucks.. if they let any cars go over these mountains they will only let those who have chains...
harold cooked his fried eggs very slowwwwwly.... barely on warm....... says his kids taught him this trick.... never saw a man enjoy eggs like he did.... never left the stove... swiped his toast in his perfectly cooked eggs and we never saw him again til morning.... he admired everyone who cooked in that kitchen... especially the german fella with his pasta and veggies,,, baked... he said.. thats the german way to cook.... nice man that harold.... he got told to shush when trying to interrupt his wife... he shrugged, kept talking... hahahahaha
life fairbs said that kitchen was as busy as filenes at wedding gown sale.. but i said,, at least they didnt throw knives at each other like one of the places i worked.... no names mentioned.. but ... it is multicolored , half circle, and comes out after a summer rain... i did quit that job..
The boat was like a cruise ship - we learned later it used to cross the English Channel. We had a seat in the cafe right at the bow and watched the truckers tie up the city. Next to us was a couple who let us borrow their newspaper. They were testing each other on the sports quiz and we found out he's a Yankees' fan and follows the Minnesota Vikings. He loves ESPN - subscribes to it on cable. What are the odds of meeting someone in New Zealand who knows who Joe Girardi is and knows Dante Culpepper's stats?
They knew all about walks all over the South Island and saved us from going to the information center where I was sure to get lost and bore the workers silly.
We headed west along the coast on Queen Charlotte Drive again with cliffs on one side and small villages and the ocean on the other. Once we headed inland the valleys were all vineyards and orchards.
We got to our town - Motueka - and asked about hiking in Abel Tasman Park. It turns out we'd have to take a $52.00 boat ride - each - to hike back to town for 3-4 hours. It sounded beautiful but everywhere we looked was like some sort of fairy land so we decided against it.
Any dissapointment over that was made up by the fact that we got into town on the opening night of their festival of lights. This is a one street village that had pineapple sized lights strung across the street. We bumped into a couple of old gents who said it would take the politicians about 30 minutes to flip the switch so come back around 6:00. It wasn't only lights across the street - there were small blinking lights like palms trees and floral displays above the one story shops and every store had something in it - reindeer, little trees and sleds among others. It turns out that they are celebrating the days getting longer and have to have something to do in the winter. Christmas is in the summer and the days are long and any displays just don't quite make it that time of year.
We were serenaded by bagpipe players of the Motueka Pipe Band and a four woman vocal group like Meghan's called the Nancies. On our way back to the hostel we passed a bakery that had just put out a sign for half price pies and quiches - this is like some movie town.
This was the first hostel where we met a lot of other adults. A couple from South Africa, another from Budapest with a small son and quite a few Asian women on their holiday work visas. Everyone makes a mad dash for the kitchens in these hostels - a lot like Filene's Basement and their annual bridal gown sale. There was a German guy baking cookies from scratch and some fancy meal, one of the Asian women was boiling a whole chicken for soup and we had our little bowl of pasta.
extra spice,,, harold.. and maude?? no not really, but he was harold
we were sort of prepped for the milford sound on this trip... the ride went through smaller mountains but it still looked a little like fiordland.. and picton was our alaska town....
ferry ride served food constantly .. for sale... movies,, raiders and iron man... 12 bucks... guess what we skipped the movie... been there done that..
harold was the south african man,, his wife.. ?... but she interrupted him alot and seemed to know everything about everything... she insisted on going over the mountain road.. it might snow he said... no worries, she said.... we can get to christchurch faster.... well, harold had been scarred for life when caught in a snowstorm in north carolina, somewhere in the mountains... since then he has carried chains in his car when travelling out of south africa... this time he sprung for chains for $100 bucks.. if they let any cars go over these mountains they will only let those who have chains...
harold cooked his fried eggs very slowwwwwly.... barely on warm....... says his kids taught him this trick.... never saw a man enjoy eggs like he did.... never left the stove... swiped his toast in his perfectly cooked eggs and we never saw him again til morning.... he admired everyone who cooked in that kitchen... especially the german fella with his pasta and veggies,,, baked... he said.. thats the german way to cook.... nice man that harold.... he got told to shush when trying to interrupt his wife... he shrugged, kept talking... hahahahaha
life fairbs said that kitchen was as busy as filenes at wedding gown sale.. but i said,, at least they didnt throw knives at each other like one of the places i worked.... no names mentioned.. but ... it is multicolored , half circle, and comes out after a summer rain... i did quit that job..
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Wellington here we come. July 3rd
Today we're just headed to Wellington to find a room for the ferry the next day. It started out nice today - the sun came back - and yes, it's a beautiful drive. We wound our way through Scottish moors and the foothills of the Rockies in Montana.
A big problem here is that the roads are so narrow and windy that there is just no way to safely take pictures. There are no turn outs or scenic overviews. The shoulders, if there are any, consist of a white line and a narrow strip of asphalt wide enough for a box turtle to pull over. Toots has been taking pictures from the car and we'll have to see if they come out.
We may a wrong turn in a town called Bull. We kept going for about 15 miles until we hit a small town and a dead end at the ocean. You can't tell small rural roads from the main thoroughfare here so if you get off the "big" road you can go miles without having a clue.
The directions to the hostel in Wellington sounded simple but we wound up circling around until we found it. We stopped a block away and when we opened the door almost flew into the harbor. This is supposed to be the windiest city in the world and we're not going to argue with anyone about that.
The hostel is huge, clean, warm; something we notice whenever we run into it, and our room looks out over the harbor and hills that look like San Francisco - Toots will tell you about that.
There's a museum in town so we walked over. It's free and a great one - art, science and natural history. The art wing had exhibits by New Zealand artists, Moari art, European painters of the twentieth century and a number of prints by Albrecht Durer. Volcanoes, birds, whales and the ocean filled the science section.
toots....
the town of bull.... it seemed that alot of places put bull in front of or after the name of the place... for ex. we are a socialbull. town.. .... bullbank..... keep your bullmoney here... bullbakery,bullcafe... get it...
we walked up the pedestrian path to get to san francisco.... 107 steps exactly and 107 down... san fran is the sister city and it looks it... harbor and all.. except for the wind.. that is chicago... the houses terraced into the hills... quaint, some small single story cottagy look, or skinny duplexes.. . seems like alot of houses have roofs like ours but squished down to one floor....
met some gals in the lavatory.. all dressed up, going out on the town.. they really dress up here... black cocktail dresses , to the nines...... they said they were going on cable car to botanic gardens and that it was a great city to go out in.. lots of young people i guess..... later that evening one woke us up sobbing in lounge right next to our room.. and someone got sick... when they saw me get up to go to the ladies room the sobbing one left.. oh well...
areas for kids to use their skateboards ... practice in the concrete bowls... and a swimming facility.. huge.. and a tip top store .. thats it folks... next ... the cruise to picton and all its glory....
As we were headed back to the room the receptionist told us we had to leave real early for the ferry. Truckers all over New Zealand are protesting the high price of diesel and will block our way. We set the alarm for 5:00 and will see what happens.
A big problem here is that the roads are so narrow and windy that there is just no way to safely take pictures. There are no turn outs or scenic overviews. The shoulders, if there are any, consist of a white line and a narrow strip of asphalt wide enough for a box turtle to pull over. Toots has been taking pictures from the car and we'll have to see if they come out.
We may a wrong turn in a town called Bull. We kept going for about 15 miles until we hit a small town and a dead end at the ocean. You can't tell small rural roads from the main thoroughfare here so if you get off the "big" road you can go miles without having a clue.
The directions to the hostel in Wellington sounded simple but we wound up circling around until we found it. We stopped a block away and when we opened the door almost flew into the harbor. This is supposed to be the windiest city in the world and we're not going to argue with anyone about that.
The hostel is huge, clean, warm; something we notice whenever we run into it, and our room looks out over the harbor and hills that look like San Francisco - Toots will tell you about that.
There's a museum in town so we walked over. It's free and a great one - art, science and natural history. The art wing had exhibits by New Zealand artists, Moari art, European painters of the twentieth century and a number of prints by Albrecht Durer. Volcanoes, birds, whales and the ocean filled the science section.
toots....
the town of bull.... it seemed that alot of places put bull in front of or after the name of the place... for ex. we are a socialbull. town.. .... bullbank..... keep your bullmoney here... bullbakery,bullcafe... get it...
we walked up the pedestrian path to get to san francisco.... 107 steps exactly and 107 down... san fran is the sister city and it looks it... harbor and all.. except for the wind.. that is chicago... the houses terraced into the hills... quaint, some small single story cottagy look, or skinny duplexes.. . seems like alot of houses have roofs like ours but squished down to one floor....
met some gals in the lavatory.. all dressed up, going out on the town.. they really dress up here... black cocktail dresses , to the nines...... they said they were going on cable car to botanic gardens and that it was a great city to go out in.. lots of young people i guess..... later that evening one woke us up sobbing in lounge right next to our room.. and someone got sick... when they saw me get up to go to the ladies room the sobbing one left.. oh well...
areas for kids to use their skateboards ... practice in the concrete bowls... and a swimming facility.. huge.. and a tip top store .. thats it folks... next ... the cruise to picton and all its glory....
As we were headed back to the room the receptionist told us we had to leave real early for the ferry. Truckers all over New Zealand are protesting the high price of diesel and will block our way. We set the alarm for 5:00 and will see what happens.
To Turangi and Tongariro National Park.
The mountains dissapeared overnight and we woke to rain and fog. It's a straight drive to Turangi and we were hoping to get there early and have time for a few walks in the mountains where they filmed the movie.
We got to the information center and the woman, Rhonda, couldn't believe we wanted to go out in the rain. She showed us a few short walks right in town along the river and up by the trout center - this is, according to a sign in town, the trout center of the world. After a few questions she finally told us how to get to the national park and the mountains but couldn't imagine we'd be able to get there. It felt like she was sending us out the door with a binky saying "go walk by the river like nice little children." (That's Toot's line)
Well we did head up to the national park and tried a few trails that were just too icy and snowy but as we headed down below the snow line, but not rain line, we saw a sign and parking spot for another trail. We had our rain gear on so damn it, we were going to walk somewhere. This turned out to be the Whakkapappanui Trail and it was, of course, beautiful. We started on a small suspension bridge into a mixed semi-tropical forest with hardwoods, evergreens, short palms, hanging vines and large ferns. With a little snow just off the trail and in the forest it was unlike anything we'd seen so far.
This hostel had heat and we couldn't see our breath in any of the common rooms. The owner, Roger and his wife retired and couldn't hack it. He built the hostel himself and then a few years later added a large climbing center with walls for every level of climber. They've been married for 43 years and have never stopped moving. Roger sounds just like Michael Caine when he's playing a working man role and his wife when not helping 100 kids suit up for climbing, comes into the hostel and keeps the fire going.
toots
bjorn borg was actually at the hostel.. i know it was him.. he was very quiet and had long hair and he had a tennis racquet.. no not really.... no racquet... but he was quiet and had the demeanor of bjorn... he ate peanut butter and jelly and i know bjorn loves p and b sandwiches... he watched movies all day and read and got on the internet.. he wasnt a brave soul like us... we were out walking in the rain....i said.. hey bjorn, good day for movies eh... he looked up .. nodded..grunted... it was bjorn alright....
we couldn't resist a sign that said.. maori village.. turn here..... well it might have been during summer months.. must have taken down the little houses.... but the maori fence went all around the property.. a fence i loved... made of very thin 5 ft high straight branches... close together.. and one long branch connecting them ... about one-third from the top... this spot looked perfect for a maori village.. overlooked the ocean.. looked south seas, which it is..... and hawaii... palm trees, green green grass with abit of a rolling hill... wanted to lie down on it and look at the tall palms, but the rain was pelting and we thought maybe we are not supposed to be here...so we left.... next off to the rugby winners town.... wellington
We got to the information center and the woman, Rhonda, couldn't believe we wanted to go out in the rain. She showed us a few short walks right in town along the river and up by the trout center - this is, according to a sign in town, the trout center of the world. After a few questions she finally told us how to get to the national park and the mountains but couldn't imagine we'd be able to get there. It felt like she was sending us out the door with a binky saying "go walk by the river like nice little children." (That's Toot's line)
Well we did head up to the national park and tried a few trails that were just too icy and snowy but as we headed down below the snow line, but not rain line, we saw a sign and parking spot for another trail. We had our rain gear on so damn it, we were going to walk somewhere. This turned out to be the Whakkapappanui Trail and it was, of course, beautiful. We started on a small suspension bridge into a mixed semi-tropical forest with hardwoods, evergreens, short palms, hanging vines and large ferns. With a little snow just off the trail and in the forest it was unlike anything we'd seen so far.
This hostel had heat and we couldn't see our breath in any of the common rooms. The owner, Roger and his wife retired and couldn't hack it. He built the hostel himself and then a few years later added a large climbing center with walls for every level of climber. They've been married for 43 years and have never stopped moving. Roger sounds just like Michael Caine when he's playing a working man role and his wife when not helping 100 kids suit up for climbing, comes into the hostel and keeps the fire going.
toots
bjorn borg was actually at the hostel.. i know it was him.. he was very quiet and had long hair and he had a tennis racquet.. no not really.... no racquet... but he was quiet and had the demeanor of bjorn... he ate peanut butter and jelly and i know bjorn loves p and b sandwiches... he watched movies all day and read and got on the internet.. he wasnt a brave soul like us... we were out walking in the rain....i said.. hey bjorn, good day for movies eh... he looked up .. nodded..grunted... it was bjorn alright....
we couldn't resist a sign that said.. maori village.. turn here..... well it might have been during summer months.. must have taken down the little houses.... but the maori fence went all around the property.. a fence i loved... made of very thin 5 ft high straight branches... close together.. and one long branch connecting them ... about one-third from the top... this spot looked perfect for a maori village.. overlooked the ocean.. looked south seas, which it is..... and hawaii... palm trees, green green grass with abit of a rolling hill... wanted to lie down on it and look at the tall palms, but the rain was pelting and we thought maybe we are not supposed to be here...so we left.... next off to the rugby winners town.... wellington
On to Area 51, July 1st
Another early day after saying goodbye to Craig and we headed south. It's pretty much a straight shot to Taupo but we did stop off in Karanganake Gorge. This was the site of a gold rush back in 1875 and the river drops off into a steep gorge with a few trails and tunnels where they dug for gold running all around it. The more interesting path was one that led up into the hills along a stream. We're starting to get into one of the areas where they filmed the Lord of the Rings and they could have done some of it here. It's all dark green with small waterfalls and pools and evergreens and small palms and huge fern trees. Moss hangs from a lot of the trees and flowers pop out from the side walls of the trail. Just as we were about to head back a small boy came running through with a couple of dogs - he could have been Frodo and we wouldn't have been surprised.
The landscape keeps changing dramatically. Within ten minutes of leaving the gorge we hit three continents - California, the South American rain forest and the Yorkshire Dales in northern England. If you blindfolded someone and told them to look out every now and again they'd think you were in a space ship able to travel from one country to another in just a few minutes.
A few miles down the road we saw a few of the mountain peaks from Lord of the Rings - snow covered and one with three peaks.
We got to Taupo and found our hostel, a sort of California/Florida split level motel with a courtyard. A lot of kids but clean and a heater in the room. Taupo is a new town built up around a huge lake formed by a volcano eruption 1800 years ago. The blast was stronger than Krakatoa and Mt St Helens combined. Like Toots said, it's nice, but has a strange feel to it. It's all one story, streets layed out in quandrants until you head out along the lake where all the houses are still single story, modern and square - a lot like Farenheit 451.
toots here again...
we were told that you could or someone could drop Singapore right into this lake.. that's how big it is... at least 30 miles long...
there was a couple young girls that signed us in ... they told us they left london because it distressed them... and they are happy in taupo.... i know they are aliens...
and we saw many juicy rental cars and lime green vans.. with their logo all over it.... two girls pulled up to this hostel parked and slept right there in the van.. went inside for showers and they were watching dodgeball.. the movie... then to the van.. in the morning when we left we saw the van all steamed up.. oxygen breathing humans inside...
our tiny tiny room... was like a japanese compartment to sleep in.... and the heater could be turned on for a maximum of 30 min. at a time.. being small it worked... but it ticked for 30 minutes,,sort of lulled us to sleep... surprisingly it didnt keep us awake..tick, tick, tick... tick.. tick tick.. need i go one.... off to see the wizard..... roger...
The landscape keeps changing dramatically. Within ten minutes of leaving the gorge we hit three continents - California, the South American rain forest and the Yorkshire Dales in northern England. If you blindfolded someone and told them to look out every now and again they'd think you were in a space ship able to travel from one country to another in just a few minutes.
A few miles down the road we saw a few of the mountain peaks from Lord of the Rings - snow covered and one with three peaks.
We got to Taupo and found our hostel, a sort of California/Florida split level motel with a courtyard. A lot of kids but clean and a heater in the room. Taupo is a new town built up around a huge lake formed by a volcano eruption 1800 years ago. The blast was stronger than Krakatoa and Mt St Helens combined. Like Toots said, it's nice, but has a strange feel to it. It's all one story, streets layed out in quandrants until you head out along the lake where all the houses are still single story, modern and square - a lot like Farenheit 451.
toots here again...
we were told that you could or someone could drop Singapore right into this lake.. that's how big it is... at least 30 miles long...
there was a couple young girls that signed us in ... they told us they left london because it distressed them... and they are happy in taupo.... i know they are aliens...
and we saw many juicy rental cars and lime green vans.. with their logo all over it.... two girls pulled up to this hostel parked and slept right there in the van.. went inside for showers and they were watching dodgeball.. the movie... then to the van.. in the morning when we left we saw the van all steamed up.. oxygen breathing humans inside...
our tiny tiny room... was like a japanese compartment to sleep in.... and the heater could be turned on for a maximum of 30 min. at a time.. being small it worked... but it ticked for 30 minutes,,sort of lulled us to sleep... surprisingly it didnt keep us awake..tick, tick, tick... tick.. tick tick.. need i go one.... off to see the wizard..... roger...
We're still in Thames June 30th
Before going to the right hostel we walked around town. Another cowboy town with the overhangs and sideways parking. We went to two bakeries to sample the pies. One quiche was great - voted among the best in New Zealand and the sausage roll was right up there too.
Once we got to the other hostel we entered a different galaxy. This used to be an old hotel and true to the cowboy look of the town there was a shootout back in the 1800's. The owner, Craig, and his mother run it and have a whole crew of people who clean and keep it up. There's a nice common room with a pool table, tv and books. The kitchen is clean and the whole place is warm. This may be the only building in New Zealand with some kind of central heating. Our room has towels - unheard of so far - and two pillows. Who are the inhabitants of this planet? We could learn many things from them.
We went for a few walks in the National Park on the Coromandel Peninsula. The trails take you through beatiful tropics in a valley between two steep mountain ranges. The diversity is just amazing.
We got to talking with the hostel owner and found out the place is on the market. He has a lot of problems with kids - I'll let Toots fill you in on that. One of his workers is a young woman from the UK. She's been travelling since high school - she's twenty three now and will head home soon to make some more money and hopefully move to New Zealand. A lot of young people come here for the work visa - you can stay a year and work wherever you want or can. Most seem to find jobs at hostels where you work for three hours and get free room and board, a lot like Wwoofing on farms. They stay as long as needed or until they want to see somewhere else, go online and find another hostel that needs help.
toots here with more tidbits....
okay... craig also does huge bus tours through europe and russia.. the expensive ones... but he did tell us that if we email him before we get to russia he would connect us with tatiana who give tube tours in moscow.. he says they are great...
craig told us stories of all the kids that try to get into the hostel for free, even though most use their parents' charge cards... for them to stay in a dorm room it is under 25 bucks and they still try to get in free or get free internet, free whatever... most aggravating is that one will pay and the van waits outside and after 10ish that person will try and let his gang of van people in ... craig is on the lookout though and because he calls them on this they whine and say they will give him a bad review in backpacker world... perhaps this is why he is trying to sell... too bad because it is a nice one... not all places have this problem because it's not a real destination place where people stay... one night and off to next place... some of these vanigans sleep on his stoop... they are demanding and abit spoiled... craig refers to his place as faulty towers... but that was funny... this isnt't..hey, and alot of the kids are american... one group came and said they were with green peace and deserved free everything.. ha.... good luck bubba
they have a box of free stuff here... food too if needed.. but we didn't need any... we had our pasta to make 100 different ways... going for the sardine sauce next.. rah.. your recipe... but i did find an extra fleece... much better than mine.. ha.... and there were nice hiking shoes too.. but i have shoes and so does my husband the shoemaker... hahahaha..... later... craig off to russia and we are off to taupo... sounds finnish eh... but taupo is really "area 51".... stay tuned....
Once we got to the other hostel we entered a different galaxy. This used to be an old hotel and true to the cowboy look of the town there was a shootout back in the 1800's. The owner, Craig, and his mother run it and have a whole crew of people who clean and keep it up. There's a nice common room with a pool table, tv and books. The kitchen is clean and the whole place is warm. This may be the only building in New Zealand with some kind of central heating. Our room has towels - unheard of so far - and two pillows. Who are the inhabitants of this planet? We could learn many things from them.
We went for a few walks in the National Park on the Coromandel Peninsula. The trails take you through beatiful tropics in a valley between two steep mountain ranges. The diversity is just amazing.
We got to talking with the hostel owner and found out the place is on the market. He has a lot of problems with kids - I'll let Toots fill you in on that. One of his workers is a young woman from the UK. She's been travelling since high school - she's twenty three now and will head home soon to make some more money and hopefully move to New Zealand. A lot of young people come here for the work visa - you can stay a year and work wherever you want or can. Most seem to find jobs at hostels where you work for three hours and get free room and board, a lot like Wwoofing on farms. They stay as long as needed or until they want to see somewhere else, go online and find another hostel that needs help.
toots here with more tidbits....
okay... craig also does huge bus tours through europe and russia.. the expensive ones... but he did tell us that if we email him before we get to russia he would connect us with tatiana who give tube tours in moscow.. he says they are great...
craig told us stories of all the kids that try to get into the hostel for free, even though most use their parents' charge cards... for them to stay in a dorm room it is under 25 bucks and they still try to get in free or get free internet, free whatever... most aggravating is that one will pay and the van waits outside and after 10ish that person will try and let his gang of van people in ... craig is on the lookout though and because he calls them on this they whine and say they will give him a bad review in backpacker world... perhaps this is why he is trying to sell... too bad because it is a nice one... not all places have this problem because it's not a real destination place where people stay... one night and off to next place... some of these vanigans sleep on his stoop... they are demanding and abit spoiled... craig refers to his place as faulty towers... but that was funny... this isnt't..hey, and alot of the kids are american... one group came and said they were with green peace and deserved free everything.. ha.... good luck bubba
they have a box of free stuff here... food too if needed.. but we didn't need any... we had our pasta to make 100 different ways... going for the sardine sauce next.. rah.. your recipe... but i did find an extra fleece... much better than mine.. ha.... and there were nice hiking shoes too.. but i have shoes and so does my husband the shoemaker... hahahaha..... later... craig off to russia and we are off to taupo... sounds finnish eh... but taupo is really "area 51".... stay tuned....
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
tidbits by toots
forgot a couple things.. that british girl that we met who travelled around the world with her boyfriend who hopped over to japan.... sounds like a soap... well,, he earned the money to go by using or selling stuff on ebay.. dont know what but he made a bundle.. his friend did too.... he sold roman coins... hmmmmm did a light go off....
and when driving along the beautiful highways signs appear out of the blue.. they are big and a subdued orange so as not to startle too much as what they say is pretty startling... for example.... "your driving too fast" crash....... and "the wait for the ambulance is 30 minutes"... plus others... on the lighter side.. they thank you for being tolerant for waiting for the construction or any delays..
and who could forget the giant hedges... they are about 30 feet high... cut into big hedges.. yes, to shield the wind ... as it blows off ocean or through the valley.... they are awesome...
last but not least,,, the coffee...... they are called.. flat white... and long black.... fb has come to the other side now... he is a flat out flat white.... for now... cause the black puts hair on his hairy chest... it tastes like a double expresso boiled with three tablespoons of turkish coffee... hey wait a minute,, do we know someone who likes this..... mattttttt
no more tidbits.. onto the next day in the life of us........
one more... no traffic lights... sort of say hello at the round out... or excuse me.. nod.. people seem to know when to go... right thru intersections.. no lights... they are all psychics..... and no charges for parking... no meters.. they park at angles... // pretty civilized these kiwis...
and when driving along the beautiful highways signs appear out of the blue.. they are big and a subdued orange so as not to startle too much as what they say is pretty startling... for example.... "your driving too fast" crash....... and "the wait for the ambulance is 30 minutes"... plus others... on the lighter side.. they thank you for being tolerant for waiting for the construction or any delays..
and who could forget the giant hedges... they are about 30 feet high... cut into big hedges.. yes, to shield the wind ... as it blows off ocean or through the valley.... they are awesome...
last but not least,,, the coffee...... they are called.. flat white... and long black.... fb has come to the other side now... he is a flat out flat white.... for now... cause the black puts hair on his hairy chest... it tastes like a double expresso boiled with three tablespoons of turkish coffee... hey wait a minute,, do we know someone who likes this..... mattttttt
no more tidbits.. onto the next day in the life of us........
one more... no traffic lights... sort of say hello at the round out... or excuse me.. nod.. people seem to know when to go... right thru intersections.. no lights... they are all psychics..... and no charges for parking... no meters.. they park at angles... // pretty civilized these kiwis...
Heading Further North June 29th
Caroline, the Irish woman suggested we head north to a town called Ahipara and stay at a hostel called the Endless Summer. Evidently the Tasman Sea and the Pacific meet and the colors and waves are great.
We headed out early and started driving to the ferry across the harbor. No one on the road except a cow weaving down the center. Looked like he'd been on a bender the night before and was thinking " I could swear I left the car somewhere around here."
The ferry is about the size of our living room and could fit six cars - there was only us and one other. The town, Rawena, was nice - curvy streets, trees, old wooden buildings. The harbor was surrounded by mountains and as we went across on our 15 minute ride the sun came out to hit the peaks. The ferry guy, a real nice Maori, said come aboard and off we went.
The road to Ahiparra was again beautiful and twisting. Farmland, mountains and jungle all in a matter of a few miles. Once we got to Ahiparra though the scenery changed completely. Ocean yeah, but an ugly strip of buildings with the Endless Summer boxed in by a couple of them and the ocean view had to share a good look at a grafitti'ed bath house. The hostel was fancy but sterile, the owner a thirty something yuppie, and afraid of our boots - no shoes, boots or sandals are allowed over the threshold. We took a quick look around said we might be back and decided to head back south. We had to go through Kataia to get money - remember it's the only town in the area that has a bank or ATM - and decided maybe Dargaville wasn't such a bad place after all.
It got nice again as we headed down the island. Everything is green and tropical or green and farmland or green and forested. We kept driving hoping to make a town called Thames, it's supposed to have some good hiking and would put us south of Auckland. There had to be a way to miss the Berlin Turnpike this time and we found it.
We got to Thames after 9 hours on the road and had to pick between two hostels. We chose the closest and easiest to find - it was the wrong choice. Nice people running the place and an interesting woman who was near the end of a round the world trip with a boyfriend who was in Japan for a wedding. The rooms were cold, the bathroom was freezing and the windows wouldn't close. Germany was playing Spain for the Euro finals and the TV room was filled with people wearing jackets, hats and gloves.
We decided to spend another day in town and check out the other hostel. It was like going from the Little Rascals' playhouse to Hearst's castle - and all for the same price. More on our day there later.
toots here... here's the filler... hopefully not a repeat... the rains came that day.. it rained on and off.. off and on.... hard , soft... all different ways... as fb said when we got to ahipara we noticed it was all beach... beautiful and 90 miles of it.... bye the bye .. do u all know that gas is over 6bucks a gallon... just a side trip there.... we didnt really want to walk beaches.... we wanted to hike the bush but the lady said.. tooooo mudddy... u cant do that and wear those boots in here.. those boots were made for the porch..not for walkin.... of course we wouldnt track bad stuff in there... common sense methinks... so we pointed our el cheapo mazda rental south and headed for thames... a great town... pronounced teems..... tomorrow will be very exciting... we are staying another night... tomorrow...... craig cassidy and his gang...... stories abound......
We headed out early and started driving to the ferry across the harbor. No one on the road except a cow weaving down the center. Looked like he'd been on a bender the night before and was thinking " I could swear I left the car somewhere around here."
The ferry is about the size of our living room and could fit six cars - there was only us and one other. The town, Rawena, was nice - curvy streets, trees, old wooden buildings. The harbor was surrounded by mountains and as we went across on our 15 minute ride the sun came out to hit the peaks. The ferry guy, a real nice Maori, said come aboard and off we went.
The road to Ahiparra was again beautiful and twisting. Farmland, mountains and jungle all in a matter of a few miles. Once we got to Ahiparra though the scenery changed completely. Ocean yeah, but an ugly strip of buildings with the Endless Summer boxed in by a couple of them and the ocean view had to share a good look at a grafitti'ed bath house. The hostel was fancy but sterile, the owner a thirty something yuppie, and afraid of our boots - no shoes, boots or sandals are allowed over the threshold. We took a quick look around said we might be back and decided to head back south. We had to go through Kataia to get money - remember it's the only town in the area that has a bank or ATM - and decided maybe Dargaville wasn't such a bad place after all.
It got nice again as we headed down the island. Everything is green and tropical or green and farmland or green and forested. We kept driving hoping to make a town called Thames, it's supposed to have some good hiking and would put us south of Auckland. There had to be a way to miss the Berlin Turnpike this time and we found it.
We got to Thames after 9 hours on the road and had to pick between two hostels. We chose the closest and easiest to find - it was the wrong choice. Nice people running the place and an interesting woman who was near the end of a round the world trip with a boyfriend who was in Japan for a wedding. The rooms were cold, the bathroom was freezing and the windows wouldn't close. Germany was playing Spain for the Euro finals and the TV room was filled with people wearing jackets, hats and gloves.
We decided to spend another day in town and check out the other hostel. It was like going from the Little Rascals' playhouse to Hearst's castle - and all for the same price. More on our day there later.
toots here... here's the filler... hopefully not a repeat... the rains came that day.. it rained on and off.. off and on.... hard , soft... all different ways... as fb said when we got to ahipara we noticed it was all beach... beautiful and 90 miles of it.... bye the bye .. do u all know that gas is over 6bucks a gallon... just a side trip there.... we didnt really want to walk beaches.... we wanted to hike the bush but the lady said.. tooooo mudddy... u cant do that and wear those boots in here.. those boots were made for the porch..not for walkin.... of course we wouldnt track bad stuff in there... common sense methinks... so we pointed our el cheapo mazda rental south and headed for thames... a great town... pronounced teems..... tomorrow will be very exciting... we are staying another night... tomorrow...... craig cassidy and his gang...... stories abound......
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